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PostPosted: 01 Jun 2019 13:32 
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Does anyone have a foolproof way of fitting these so that they don’t kink.
Also I need to replace the exhaust studs that all bar one unscrewed. Is it just a matter of screwing in by hand , do I need to lock tight them?


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PostPosted: 01 Jun 2019 18:08 
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You're very lucky they all came out that easily lOl For refitting, I'd lock 2 nuts on them and nip them up with a spanner.

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PostPosted: 01 Jun 2019 19:08 
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:yt: :yup:

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PostPosted: 01 Jun 2019 19:09 
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Adam wrote:
You're very lucky they all came out that easily lOl For refitting, I'd lock 2 nuts on them and nip them up with a spanner.

Thanks Adam.


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PostPosted: 01 Jun 2019 19:10 
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barney wrote:
:yt: :yup:

:)


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PostPosted: 01 Jun 2019 23:14 
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Just an idea but now you have the studs out (not sure how you did that) if it was me, I'd use allen bolts & get rid of the studs altogether, just make very, very sure they aren't too long. I've done this on most of my previous bikes & was looking at the ones on mine but not sure mine will come out very easily. I will definitely replace with allen caps if I get the old rusty ones out successfully.
No doubt someone will have something to say about that, but that's what I will/would do.

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PostPosted: 01 Jun 2019 23:53 
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A stud fixed in the head allows for the headers to be fixed down to the stud not the head thread.
if that makes sense.


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PostPosted: 02 Jun 2019 00:11 
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TOPGUMM wrote:
A stud fixed in the head allows for the headers to be fixed down to the stud not the head thread.
if that makes sense.


Yeah that makes sense, does that matter though as your still torquing on the stud threads which are pulling on the head threads? Although you are more likely to strip stud outer threads as the nut covers less of the threads & will strip before the head threads will. If you get the bolt length correct & it will be a stronger fix & shit loads easier to get out again.

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PostPosted: 02 Jun 2019 00:40 
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You will feck the head thread before the swappable studs .


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PostPosted: 02 Jun 2019 08:29 
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TOPGUMM wrote:
You will feck the head thread before the swappable studs .


Only if your ham fisted & don't measure the bolt correctly.
Stick to what you know if you're not sure.
On these 1125r's you can also puncture the water case as can be seen in Mazs Black Musuem. Another reason to be very careful with the bolt length.
I'll definitely be changing to bolts if I ever take the originals out, more than likely stainless allen cap bolts as well. Talk about living on the edge?

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PostPosted: 02 Jun 2019 09:44 
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This is about an X1.


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PostPosted: 02 Jun 2019 10:02 
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TOPGUMM wrote:
This is about an X1.


Yeah I know, but it has exhaust studs doesn't it?

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PostPosted: 02 Jun 2019 10:03 
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Jazzbutcher wrote:
TOPGUMM wrote:
This is about an X1.


Yeah I know, but it has exhaust studs doesn't it?


Even easier when you don't have to worry about the water jacket.

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PostPosted: 02 Jun 2019 10:20 
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chrisx1 wrote:
Does anyone have a foolproof way of fitting these so that they don’t kink.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8suwaaGFCI

Have a butchers at this.

I made a tool to do this


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PostPosted: 02 Jun 2019 13:26 
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TOPGUMM wrote:
chrisx1 wrote:
Does anyone have a foolproof way of fitting these so that they don’t kink.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8suwaaGFCI

Have a butchers at this.

I made a tool to do this


Yeah totally get that TOPGUMM, nice idea for a tool also but it would be easier with that exhaust stud out of the way heh heh.

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