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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2020 2:04 pm 
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Current ride: Buell 1125R
Hi Sacha,

Said I would so here you go, Cr Parts for Gearing conversion. I'm sure a deal could be done on these with this guy re shipping as they'll both come in the same package I guess. He may take an offer on both so try it.

Left footpeg hanger (came as a surprise to me too).

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153479957748 ... 1436.l2649

Idler pulley bracket to go with the left Footrest (idler wheel is the same)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282813392840? ... 1436.l2649

All the best Sacha. JB

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2020 4:10 pm 
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Hi Paul, sorry for my late response...had some trouble with my engine. My rear cylinder intake valve broke at full rev and crashed everything from valvetrain, head, cylinder and cylindersleave.
11.5 turns per minute was not the best idea.

I got already a new piston and cylindersleave. I had a nos head on stock so actually i rebuild the engine. Lucky all the metal parts went up not down inside the engine.

I still wait for the head gasket and i think i will have itvready until next weekend.

Kind regards
Sacha


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2020 5:28 pm 
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Current ride: Buell 1125R
Holy shit!
I think you were pretty lucky Sacha, that looks minor considering it was revving at 11,500. I would've expected severe damage & another engine to be honest.
I'm guessing you checked the bottom end, con rod & the oil for metal bits.
I would check the oil pressure after the rebuild if you're not taking the engine fully down as anytime I've had damage like that, there were metal fragments & they also took out the crank. I'm guessing that you stopped pretty quickly, so it may not be the case with your engine. If it was mine I'd strip it completely.

You can connect an oil pressure gauge at the pressure switch on the right casing. I'm just in the process of fitting one to mine anyway so if I manage to find the right connectors, I'll give you a shout & you can borrow it if you want. Oil lights are fine but they only tell you when the pressure's low, a gauge keeps you much better informed about what's going on inside your engine.
Good luck buddy & let us know how it goes.
All the best. Paul

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2020 5:36 pm 
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Current ride: X1 2001
Location: southampton
:shock: ouch


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2020 6:54 pm 
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To be honest i had a bunch of luck. Reving it up it already felt like something was wrong and just in that second the valve broke i used the clutch. Of course the engine currently stopped turning so no further damage occured. The valve plate was torn off, turned and, like the valve stem, punctured the piston once or twice.
Thank you for your hints.
I gladly accept your offer

Kind regards
Sacha


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2020 6:58 pm 
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Here is the valve...


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2020 7:03 pm 
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:yt: at 11500 rpm = 192 per second when it goes wrong at those speeds it makes a mess.
some debris will of gone down into engine , and I would recommend you check the con rod and big end brg ,the loads generated by the wayward valve smash hole in piston could well of caused damage to the rod and or brg

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2020 7:48 pm 
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barney wrote:
:yt: at 11500 rpm = 192 per second when it goes wrong at those speeds it makes a mess.
some debris will of gone down into engine , and I would recommend you check the con rod and big end brg ,the loads generated by the wayward valve smash hole in piston could well of caused damage to the rod and or brg

That's right. As i mentioned i had so much luck. Maybe i i really do not know i just prepared myself to shift. I just remember 5hat it felt wrong how the engine works and suddenly...
I found only a few very small parts in the oil. Also the filter seems to be okay. I will flush the engine one or two times with cheaper oil to ensure that there are no parts left. Clearance on the rod / cam are good that's why i really hope is done with just changing the cylinder, piston, head and so on...cross fingers


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2020 8:39 pm 
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Flushed the engine with oil several times today. But I still have chips in the oil...let's see if I can get them all out


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2020 8:47 pm 
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You won't !

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2020 8:47 pm 
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not wishing to be a doom merchant , with that level of damage i would strip the motor
to go through it all .
good luck :sun:


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2020 10:21 am 
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Current ride: Buell 1125R
Listen Sacha,
The best thing for removing metal fragments & powder from your oil-ways is, as you're finding out circulating hot oil round the system as you are doing. Those fragments you can see are not the worry friend, they will get caught quite easily by the filter system.
You said you replaced a cylinder liner? What was the damage to that?
If it was scored & or scuffed you will have had very hard & brittle metal particles circulating through your filter system causing damage to the crank & shells.
This is by no means assured, You may be very, very lucky.
If you check the oil pressure reading this will tell you (without any doubt) if the shells & crank are knackered 60/80lbs is about right for any crank & shells at 3500 revs. If it's less 20/35 & pressure drops very quickly with revs they're f****d.
I know not everyone can afford to just strip an engine & the costs associated with that. Although IT IS the best option at this point but at least with this method you won't be guessing.
This will fit straight in where the oil pressure switch fits on the right casing & should be left on forever after, rebuild or not
.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132868607069 ... 1436.l2649

If you also want to use the pressure switch to keep the ECM happy use this as well.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Oi ... 2749.l2649

All the best of luck to you Sacha. JB

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2020 7:30 pm 
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Posts: 1488
Current ride: Buell 1125R
Jazzbutcher wrote:
Listen Sacha,
The best thing for removing metal fragments & powder from your oil-ways is, as you're finding out circulating hot oil round the system as you are doing. Those fragments you can see are not the worry friend, they will get caught quite easily by the filter system.
You said you replaced a cylinder liner? What was the damage to that?
If it was scored & or scuffed you will have had very hard & brittle metal particles circulating through your filter system causing damage to the crank & shells.
This is by no means assured, You may be very, very lucky.
If you check the oil pressure reading this will tell you (without any doubt) if the shells & crank are knackered 60/80lbs is about right for any crank & shells at 3500 revs. If it's less 20/35 & pressure drops very quickly with revs they're f****d.
I know not everyone can afford to just strip an engine & the costs associated with that. Although IT IS the best option at this point but at least with this method you won't be guessing.
This will fit straight in where the oil pressure switch fits on the right casing & should be left on forever after, rebuild or not
.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132868607069 ... 1436.l2649

If you also want to use the pressure switch to keep the ECM happy use this as well.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Oi ... 2749.l2649

All the best of luck to you Sacha. JB


Sorry Sacha,
Just found out the Rotax oil pressure switch is M10 x 1.
The above oil gauge won't fit although the seller does say they have other fitting kits.
The adapter will not fit at all as it's NTP threads.
My apologies. JB.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 5:12 pm 
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Hi Paul and of course all the others...
thanks for the hints and all advices.
After i flushed the engine again and again with hot oil under pressure i am pretty sure there is no material left and i will not open the engine completly.
Enclosed some other pics of the old parts...


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2020 5:22 pm 
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I think i will have to open a new thread as this is no introduction any more... :roll:


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