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 Post subject: Where is the oil thread?
PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2018 4:23 pm 
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Hi,

Can someone post a link to the Oil Thread please?

No doubt it has been done to death on here but 'oil' is too common a word to allow me to use the search engine and I can't spell 'lubricramt'

Thanks in advance
Paul

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2018 6:24 pm 
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use the factory recommended grade .

unless you are rich , then whatever you wish to waste cash on ;)

it's a bit like tyres , we all have a favourite but agree, to disagree ...mostly :yup:

we have argued this to death on here , which is why you find so much stuff searching oil :coat:

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2018 7:06 pm 
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Just remember to reduce torque settings if you oil your threads.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 6:50 am 
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Thanks Both,

I'm really after opinions on synthetic Vs mineral.
Lots of blurb about, but actual real world use is best.
I picked up somewhere in the manual to use oil for diesel engines if no other available. Probably not too critical then.
Not looking to start up old debates here. A link to an argument would be great.

Reduce torque settings if oiled threads??? Aaaargh! What is a torque setting?
Or: that is counter intuitive. Please explain.

P

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 7:14 am 
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Current ride: S1w X1 1125CR
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http://www.whatoildoineed.com
I'm keen on Morris Oils for the air cooled bikes but use Amsoil synthetic in the 1125.
Many swear by the standard HD oil for the XBs. Horses for courses. Like tyres.
Re. oiled threads; many assume it's the same torque value for a dry thread as one they may have put some oil or grease on;- it's not. :old:
Some say they can tighten nuts and bolts by just sitting on them and twisting. I say they are probably torquing out of their arses.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 11:42 am 
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Nutah wrote:
use the factory recommended grade .

unless you are rich , then whatever you wish to waste cash on ;)

it's a bit like tyres , we all have a favourite but agree, to disagree ...mostly :yup:

we have argued this to death on here , which is why you find so much stuff searching oil :coat:


:yt:


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 2:28 pm 
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I'm no expert, but! I tend to view the XB engines as fairly 'old skool' so I use old fashioned HD oil. I could be wrong as a friend had an 883 running on Screaming Eagle Synth from new with no issues so maybe it depends on when you start using it?

Tell me if I'm wrong, but the Harley based engine seems to be about high 'oil volume' or 'oil flow' rather than high 'oil pressure'. The opposite to this are modern or newer engines running on very thin oil through tight tolerances!?

I read somewhere about someone who likened synthetic oil in an older engine design to "lots of slippery bits smashing into each other" :?

My seat of the pants impression of my XB is that the standard HD 20-50 oil seems to start off thick and then thins as it heats up (which is why we should warm them gently).....but that the motors tolerances get tighter as it warms to the same degree (pun intended). At the right time of warming it tells me when both are right and it's happy to rev! Mine has done 46,000 miles and is still very good, except that Maz had to change a couple of drive side bearings, but they were doomed to failure by design anyway. ;)


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 5:25 pm 
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Bublnsqueak wrote:
Thanks Both,

I'm really after opinions on synthetic Vs mineral.
Lots of blurb about, but actual real world use is best.
I picked up somewhere in the manual to use oil for diesel engines if no other available. Probably not too critical then.
Not looking to start up old debates here. A link to an argument would be great.

Reduce torque settings if oiled threads??? Aaaargh! What is a torque setting?
Or: that is counter intuitive. Please explain.

P

I use type 5 synthetics exclusively, Red Line to be specific. The biggest benefit to it is reduced wear on startup, which is where the most damage happens. The Type 5 just clings to parts longer and even stays put in places when other oils simply just drain away, leaving you to start up dry. After 15 years of racing a 250+ HP Buell on the salt flats and a much lower HP one in the club circuit and never seeing any significant wear and tear and scarring and such or having oiling related failures, that's all I trust in anything I have with an engine, tranny or differential. I even use Red Line in my power steering. Another company that makes a good type 5 is Maxima.

The diesel oil thing is a bunch of crap IMO. It's really about people doing something to make others think they are special or cool. It has additive packages designed for the blow-by specific to diesel combustion gasses and for the higher pressures exuded on bearing and wear surfaces. That said, any oil is better than no oil, which is why the manual states to use diesel if no other is available. Our long stroke air cooled V-twins are brutal on parts. Just don't use it as a first choice.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 6:08 pm 
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here we go again... :eat:

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2018 1:24 pm 
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Nutah wrote:
here we go again... :eat:

Sorry: I'm learning stuff though!

P

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2018 4:27 pm 
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I’m not saying synthetics are not as good or better, just that HD20-50 works for me and my XB.
Best to stay with the same oils from new in my view. ;)

My 2001 1149cc Clio on the other hand at 53k had been spoiled by short journeys and little use by the old couple who owned it for a few years previous to me. It is still a ‘modern engine’ compared with my XB. I ran it in again on semi synth for 15 k doing long (rarely less than 23 miles) fastish runs then switched to Nissan fully synthetic 10-40 cos it’s cheaper than Renault, but is the same stuff! :roll: Adding a little Wynn’s additive (less than l did in my Nova, so only about 150ml in 3litres) it goes like a run away train now at 83k. 8-)


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2018 7:08 pm 
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What no brakes you mean :hehe:

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2018 12:37 am 
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Nutah wrote:
What no brakes you mean :hehe:



Almost, but not in the same manner. Typical single piston calliper on the front started squeaking then seized the other week because the slider seals had gone! Why do they make single piston jobs when double opposed pistons must be cheaper to make ( no sliders and seals, with two complex castings? )


Amazing how well a mere 60 bhp goes when the brakes are not binding! lOl


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