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PostPosted: 01 Jun 2020 19:02 
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Joined: 01 Aug 2018 19:58
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Current ride: Buell 1125R
:yup:

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PostPosted: 02 Jun 2020 07:29 
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Joined: 06 May 2009 17:10
Posts: 2486
Current ride: 99 Cyclone M2
Location: Liverpool
Result :yup:

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PostPosted: 03 Jun 2020 11:50 
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Joined: 15 Apr 2009 17:25
Posts: 11771
Location: Oswestry
S3Tim wrote:
TOPGUMM wrote:
I use a 20mm dia hard steel rod .


I think this is where I'm going wrong. :?

I tried 20/25mm bar but mild steel so the edge rounded off. Where can I get the hardened steel stuff?


Harden it yourself, not difficult, depending on what type of steel you're using.

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PostPosted: 03 Jun 2020 12:09 
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Joined: 29 Apr 2009 19:27
Posts: 927
Adam wrote:
S3Tim wrote:
TOPGUMM wrote:
I use a 20mm dia hard steel rod .


I think this is where I'm going wrong. :?

I tried 20/25mm bar but mild steel so the edge rounded off. Where can I get the hardened steel stuff?


Harden it yourself, not difficult, depending on what type of steel you're using.

Mild Steel requires case hardening, cannot be hardened by heating to red hot and quenching.

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PostPosted: 03 Jun 2020 12:21 
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Location: Oswestry
03 wrote:
Adam wrote:
S3Tim wrote:
TOPGUMM wrote:
I use a 20mm dia hard steel rod .


I think this is where I'm going wrong. :?

I tried 20/25mm bar but mild steel so the edge rounded off. Where can I get the hardened steel stuff?


Harden it yourself, not difficult, depending on what type of steel you're using.

Mild Steel requires case hardening, cannot be hardened by heating to red hot and quenching.


Casenite.

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PostPosted: 03 Jun 2020 13:34 
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Joined: 29 Apr 2009 19:27
Posts: 927
Adam wrote:
03 wrote:
Adam wrote:
S3Tim wrote:
TOPGUMM wrote:
I use a 20mm dia hard steel rod .


I think this is where I'm going wrong. :?

I tried 20/25mm bar but mild steel so the edge rounded off. Where can I get the hardened steel stuff?


Harden it yourself, not difficult, depending on what type of steel you're using.

Mild Steel requires case hardening, cannot be hardened by heating to red hot and quenching.


Casenite.

Yep, exactly. It raises the carbon content of the mild steel from around <0.1%*** carbon content which is non hardenable to >0.4%*** where the steel becomes hardenable. However, it is only a shallow hardened layer, hence the term "case hardening". Naturally, depth of the case depends on the temperature of the steel exposed to the carbon rich medium and time of exposure. Longer/hotter = deeper case hardening. The carbon atoms diffuse into the steel grain structure, which obviously takes time to happen. After exposure to "Casenite" the steel is quenched and if required, tempered.

*** Rough numbers.

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PostPosted: 03 Jun 2020 14:03 
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Joined: 15 Apr 2009 17:25
Posts: 11771
Location: Oswestry
I was making a lathe tool recently, picked up my tin of Kasenite, and the bottom fell off the tin lOl What a friggin' mess it made, it was like clearing up a bucket of soot lOl Considering there's a lot of cyanide in it, I wore gloves and didn't breathe too deeply :rotfl:

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PostPosted: 03 Jun 2020 14:18 
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Joined: 01 Aug 2018 19:58
Posts: 1718
Current ride: Buell 1125R
Should've bought one of those screwdrivers I posted.
I've been using mine for the past two days to dismantle a wall. Excellent multitool & hard as you need for anything. JB

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PostPosted: 03 Jun 2020 14:20 
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Joined: 29 Apr 2009 19:27
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Adam wrote:
I was making a lathe tool recently, picked up my tin of Kasenite, and the bottom fell off the tin lOl What a friggin' mess it made, it was like clearing up a bucket of soot lOl Considering there's a lot of cyanide in it, I wore gloves and didn't breathe too deeply :rotfl:

Yep, sounds about right :idea:

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PostPosted: 03 Jun 2020 14:27 
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Joined: 08 May 2009 19:54
Posts: 2467
Current ride: 1999 X1
Location: Texas, Gerrards Cross
In the USA, we have "Cherry Red." Same stuff probably but only good for about .001" case depth. A hard surface isn't worth shit if the metal under it deforms. And chances are that you'll lose your carbon layer to scale anyway if you try to add more heat. I have yet to try to forge it in, in larger quantities. Perhaps a blade making forum has done so but anyone making blades will likely be using proper steel anyway.

The only place I've found good use for it is stuff that doesn't see much abuse, like a homemade pivot/thrust bushing for a shift pedal or brake pedal. It's fine just to add a little more wear resistance on the surface of such a thing.

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Bob Krzeszkiewicz
2012 XR1200X - 2011 Kawasaki Z1000SX - 1999 Buell X1


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