So for the rear:

1. Locate tool kit
2. Put bike on paddock stand (I like the Micron one) and put block of wood under the rear wheel so it doesnt drop when you take the axle out
3. Remove rear brake caliper with 5/16 allen socket
4. Undo rear axle pinch bolt with 3/8 allen socket
5. Undo rear axle 20 turns using double nut with circlip (in toolkit) and 7/8 AF socket. If this tool or your toolkit has gone MIA, any decent bike shop will stock a Motrax 22mm hex bit. If when you try to undo the axle, the swing arm appears to open out, the axle is probably seized in the bearings. If this is the case, put some plus gas, flick or other penetrating fluid around the axle/bearings on both sides of the wheel. Then, get a packing strap from your local HDB dealer (they have stacks of them and will give them away) and thread it through the wheel around the swinging arm and tighten it up so it stops the swing arm from spreading. Then undo the rear axle the 20 turns. To stop this from happening again, follow step 24 religiously.
6. Remove sprocket cover with T27 screw driver
7. Remove two nuts holding tensioner fork using 9/16 AF socket and remove the tensioner fork.
8. Remove axle completely
9. Push wheel forward and carefully remove the belt from the sprocket
10. Withdraw the wheel
11. Remove sprocket and disc using T45 and T40 drivers
12. Remove tyre
13. Remove the valve using suitably sized spanner
14. Remove bearings with blind bearing puller (see How To)
15. Take wheels to powder coater stressing how important it is that they do a jolly good job of masking up, especially in the bearing bores and the sprocket and disc mating surfaces
16. Collect wheels and check they have done a good job
17. Use a de-burrer / whirligig to remove any paint and give a slight chamfer to the breaing bores
18. Insert bearings (see How To)
19. Replace valve
20. Replace tyre
21. Replace sprocket (35 ft lb) and disc (25 ft lb) with new bolts
22. Insert wheel into position
23. Carefully replace belt onto sprocket
24. Smear copa-slip on the axle
25. Insert axle and start the thread
26. Replace tensioner fork (see FS tensioner How To)
27. Tighten axle (see FS tensioner How To)
28. Tighten pinch bolt (see FS tensioner How To)
29. Replace brake caliper (25 ft lbs)
30. Replace sprocket cover (not too tight)
31. Cruise round to your mates to show them your new wheels

For the front

1. Put bike on paddock stand (I like mine which lifts at the steerer tube) and put block of wood under the front wheel so it doesnt drop when you take the axle out
2. Remove the bottom brake caliper bolt with 5/16 allen socket
3. Loosen the top brake caliper bolt
4. Loosen pinch bolts using 1/4 allen socket
5. Remove axle, note the direction to remove on the forks (clockwise to undo - LH thread) using the double nut and circlip from the toolkit and a 7/8 socket. If this tool or your toolkit has gone MIA, any decent bike shop will stock a Motrax 22mm hex bit.
6. Remove axle completely
7. Push wheel rearward and carefully twist the forkleg to get the caliper out of harms way
8. Withdraw the wheel
9. Remove the disc using T40 driver
10. Remove tyre
11. Remove the valve using suitably sized spanner
12. Remove bearings with blind bearing puller (see How To)
13. Take wheels to powder coater stressing how important it is that they do a jolly good job of masking up, especially in the bearing bores and the disc mating surfaces
14. Collect wheels and check they have done a good job
15. Use a de-burrer / whirligig to remove any paint and give a slight chamfer to the breaing bores
16. Insert bearings (see How To)
17. Replace valve
18. Replace tyre
19. Replace disc (25 ft lb in a criss cross manner) with new springs, washers, drive bushings and bolts
20. Insert wheel into position
21. Carefully rotate forkleg to bring caliper in correct orientation
22. Smear copa-slip on the axle
23. Insert axle and tighten (40 ft lbs)
24. Reposition the caliper and tighten (25 ft lbs)
25. Lower bike and bounce on the forks, then tighten pinch bolts (20 ft lbs)
26. Cruise round to your mates to show them your new wheels

If you are very concerned about the bearing bores / disc face / sprocket face you could:
1. Turn up some hardwood dummy bearing plugs with a piece of stud between them
2. Make a hardwood/aluminium dummy disc (no bigger than the machined face on the wheel)
3. Make up a hardwood/aluminium dummy sprocket (no bigger than the machined face on the wheel)

Might be worth talking to the powder coater / painter / blaster beforehand.

_________________
08 Specialized Langster