Tinkering with exhausts seems a popular pastime for your average Bueller, I've had the headers off XB9 & XB12 models this is how i done it. Bike on sidestand,
Remove the plastic chin bit,the plastic under the o/s frame & the scoop bit under the n/s frame, Release the straps around the can & the clamp joining the can & headers. As you carefully lower the can disconnect the cable if fitted.
Now lift the bike upright & support it with a block of wood under the rear can bracket so the rear wheel is just touching the ground. Lift the seat off,now remove the rear shock & the attached cannister in one piece , It comes out the top. Unplug & remove the cooling fan. Unplug the wire to the sensor in the rear header. Now you are ready to undo the flange nuts on both headers.Now release the frame supporting the oil cooler etc & let it hang on the attached wiring. If you now slide the flanges away from the mounting studs the headers will move about enough to enable you to get a combo/ring on that sensor & remove it. Now the headers should be in your lap. Theres a gasket inserted in each head , I would renew these, they just push in.
On re-assembly dont forget to tighten the sensor while your combo/ring will still access it or you will have to bend the spanner & it wont fit back in your box. Hope this is useful.

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There's only one way of life

Fitting Aero Headers & Reverso Can?
This is how I did it. Time taken was about 2 hours. What these photos don't show you is removing or refitting plugs, cables, grommets and some parts were fiddly and required some patients especially if you only drop the engine just enough to get to the rear header pipe bolts. Maz's tip are shown in red depicting a more thorough job where the engine is dropped much further for easier access but involves more work.

1. Use a rear paddock stand to support bike
2. Loosen rear wheel


3. Remove belt tensioner cover


4. Remove belt tensioner




5. Remove plastic cover O/S


6. Remove air duct N/S


7. Remove chin spoiler.


8. Remove exhaust valve cable from muffler


9. Support muffler with a jack, unbolt and remove


10. Remove tank cover


11. Remove cables and tubes before unclipping and removing top airbox


12. Remove air filter and the airbox base


13. Slacken / remove engine mount hidden under airbox. Maz's tip - Top tie bar only needs undoing at engine.


14. Slacken / remove engine mount connected to oil radiator (optional - the oil cooler frame is removed from the frame and hence will move with the rotation of the engine)


15. Undo bolts connecting engine to frame on both sides.


16. Support bottom of the engine with a jack


17. Slaken right off but leave large bolt between forks connected. Maz's tip - Consider removing the front mudguard to give more workspace and to avoid damage. Slacken the rear engine mounting bolt (not shown).


18. Now the engine is supported by the jack at this point. Lower it enough to remove header pipes. As you do this, check for tightening of throttle cables, the wiring harness and fuel pipes, and for clashing between the harness and coil. Maz's tip is to remove the ignition coil and plug leads, disconnect all engine harness connectors, injector plugs etc.under airbox, disconnect fuel line and disconnect clutch cable from lever. In addition, on 08>models the ign. pick up cables etc will need disconnecting.


19. Disconnect sensor connected to rear header pipe and re fit into new exhaust header pipe.


20. Remove circlips and flange bracket from old headers and refit on new exhaust. Whilst the old ones can be reused it is recommended to replace with new ones. (Exhaust gasket not shown).




21. Fit rear pipe (if separate) and then assemble the exhaust system. Tuck the original exhaust valve cable away underneath the belt tensioner cover.








Refitting

22. Same as above but in reverse order.
23. Remember to use the correct torque settings.
24. Make sure the base of the plastic funnel is pulled through the holes all the way around before fitting the air filter.






25. Disconnect exhaust valve cable before fitting cover back on.

Anyone still got the pics to go with this? Not where a couple of the bits are and don't wanna just take a guess and do it wrong.

Yes, please reload the photos. The first post gave me the impression that you don't have to rotate the engine if you have small hands and luck.

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Every Curve Has A Highside, So I've Got That Going For Me

Bad Decisions Make Good Stories

The photos went when PH left us.

As for the first post, it works for 9 and 08+ 12s, but not for pre-08 12s where a rotation is needed.

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08 Specialized Langster

rotation really wasn't that hard, apart from the stubborn bolts i broke, thread i stripped, and forgetting to tighten the coils lol