As a newbie this is my first go at this bit of the site, you've been warned. I noticed that this job wasn't on there so here goes.
Sorry no pics too technical
The majority I learned from maz and pash.
Take out the pads.
Carefully remove the caliper...... its well tight. Two big allen bolts and the mudguard mount.
undo allen bolts on bottom of forks, then axle nut. MAKE SHURE FRONT OF BIKE IS WELL PROPPED ON STANDS OR JACK. slide out the axle and off with the wheel.
Get the wheel on the bench and carefully remove the bearing seals to protect them from the next bit.
With A blow torch give each of the rotor retaining allen bolts a good roasting, this melts the uber strong locktite they have on them, pointing the flame away from the bearings. get them well hot but not so hot that the bearing grease starts bubbling and smoking.
I found the best tool to undo them was a very short (about 10mm) 3/16 allen in a socket an impact drive can help, DONT USE CHEAP SHITTY ALLENS and make shure the hex recess is well clean.
Put the new rotor on concave side up and tighten up the new allen bolts to the specified toque, i put some blue lock tight on but not shure if this is needed.
if the spacers fall out the fat one goes on the disk side, this indicates worn bearings.
Put the wheel back on. Locate the speedo collar tang in the recess in the hub.
If fitting EBC pro lites and pads ( the muts nuts) you might have to grind the retaining clip a bit to stop it rubbing on the pads.
Its also well worth carfully widening the disk groove in the calliper with some gentle fileing so that the calliper goes back on easily without fouling the rims.
Tighten up the mounting bolts to correct torque ( i used some blue lock tite) and mark em with a paint line so you can tell if they've shifted'
Give it a spin while up in the air to check nothings rubbing. jobs a good un
Please edit / delete or add to this if i'm talking out my arse.
Thanks Richard Stone
