A couple of things here. I am not saying you dont know but just in case? The comp and rebound is the other way round with USD forks IE comp is set at the bottom of the fork and rebound at the top. Many make this mistake. All changes should be the same to both sides. Also only make a quarter of a turn change at any time.

I would say that your front fork compression, or other, is way to hard. You are upsetting the balance of the bike because your suspension is not set right for your style of riding with this bike. This is of course as long as the bikes suspension is ok in the first place IE working as it should, fork oil/air levels, etc.

There are lots of things need to set suspension right and it takes time but the base line is this. Tyres. I would set them 36 front and 36-38 rear, check them each day you are setting up the bike and make sure they are warm, 5 miles ish, before you make any changes to the suspension. Pre load. Set it so that you have the same ammout front/rear sag (both ends go down about the same ammount) while sitting on the bike. Set front/rear comp/rebound as per book to start with. After that it is about setting the bike up how you like it but just make small adjustments and note how they feel on the road.

I find the suspension on a Uly superb and see no reason why it should not be so on your bike. Have fun .

Just a thought, if you have the high bar kit rather than the original (and far superior) ace bars, then you will have to adjust your settings accordingly, more so than the book states as it was printed for the R and CR with ace bars and I doubt it has be altered to account for the high bars and there being less weight on the front end........

Bugger, just reading through this thread and JBR's beaten me to it.

If you do have the upright bars then try reading this -

https://www.buell.com/om/99480-10Y_en/

It's the 2010 CR/R owners manual hosted on BWB - as 2010 CRs come with the high bars as standard it may have different info on suspension set up.

I amaze myself sometimes!! I'm gonna blame being sober for the clear thinking!!

see everyone gives a different version of the same answer

suspensions goosed,
some say raise rear preload, some say lower front compression
all i know is, im not the stig
i need to understand in my head what every adjustment i make actually does to the ride then i can figure it out
suspension setup isnt my best hobby really, ive been told im too light (9 stone) and need a lighter rear shock
the degree of wobble or weave is affected by the speed and road surface regardless of whether i completely lose control or not
an extra bit of negligence once it starts would end up in something like that tt vid
tank slapper or weave, same thing on different levels
it happens on str8 roads as well as bends
whats my definitive answer?
i dunno
i know i need to sort it out tho,
im still waiting on the bars to arrive so i gotta set it up for cafe bars for now, thats assuming its a different setup, ill check the 10 model settings against my own
whats the ammount of sag im looking for, i cant find any figures on it
having the same ammount on the front and rear is sort of like a ball park figure
i do think i should start with preload anyway
in the book, it gives figures for different weights, for example 78-86kg, 87-95kg and then the setting to go for
then theres the lowest setting which says 'under77kg' thats the setting im using now
im definately under 77kg but so is my 3 yr old nephew
im closer to 57.1526 kg
buell dont even record data for people my weight, its like the bike is designed for americans

is it gonna be like a torque wrench where you go past the readable scale and the calculations just get warped or do ya think i should follow the pattern and calculate my own settings for the lower end of the scale,
would i really benefit from lighter springs?
id like a red one in the back coz that white one looks out of place

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of course its black

Is the bike new or just new to you ? Only asking because I thought that all of the 1125 models had a red rear spring and I wondered if somebody may have changed it - if they have then the factory settings will be useless ...

Correct me if im wrong but Doesnt it say in the handbook that the suspension settings are done with the rider and his gear combined weight, or would that not make much of a difference anyway ?

Well, the settings are for <77KG and he is 57Kg. Doubt he is wearing more than 20kg of gear!

good point,

Did you have a Buell before this one?
When I first got my XB it used to shake it's head all the time powering out of corners and I was going to get a steering damper and I was told they are useful for someone that's quite light.
However I was also told to relax my grip on the bars and let the bike do it's thing and once I started doing this the bike was fine.
On the 1125 I do the same although I do find the suspension really hard and I have just adjusted it again last night so I will see how it goes.

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Norrie.

What sporsterman said..................also it sounds to me like you say you are far lighter than they ever expected a rider to be so even if it is the standard spring i'd guess it is far to heavy for your weight.

I weigh just over 80kg and even on the bumpy Lincolnshire back roads mine behaves itself even when nailing it to the redline..........like Norrie says relax and let the bike do it's own thing.
I must admit to clutchless upchanges on it when giving mine the berries on bumpy roads as with having a relaxed grip anyway hitting the bumps at full power whilst using the clutch nearly bounces my hand off the bar

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2001 X1 2009 1125CR 2006 Uly X3 2010 Uly a fully Maz'd S1 and a 1991 RS1200 Westwind.

think you have answered your own question their fz - you need to go do some research and find out what the adjustments do to the bike - as i said in my previous reply theirs a little section in the owners manual - then set aside a day to so some playing about

My xb did this, just back off the preload a fair bit and lose most the rebound and comp damping and try, if it's gone load it all back up a bit at a time untill it just starts shaking it's head(a little shake is ok but there must be no strength to it) and go back one on all the adjusters see how it feels from there . Don't worry about rear till you got the front feeling secure.

N.

At 9 stone you are very light. Understanding all of how the tyres, suspension, etc effects the bike can take some time and can not be taught with a keyboard. One thing I do know is that you bike, once it is set up right for you, will be the best thing you have every had. Just relax and spend a little time setting it up. It might need a softer rear spring for you. Its hard to say from this end.

Buell, wierd handling, Whats new they are all fkn lethal. I dont understand how they got a certificate of conformity.. The rake is too steep, no wonder they all handle like shoppin trollys.You can set them solid its still mad even on my brand new smooth test track,,(i mean bypass) No amount of fiddliing makes a sod of difference, it just changes the point where it starts to get scary..Best to back off the gas at 90ish rather than 150ish where its less likely to settle down as quickly...Ive been fiddling with my Buells for 5 years and i love them, The wierd handling is something you will get used to.. I dont notice it anymore,,Untill i rode a mates bandit round a corner with no hands,(just to see)it was absolutly fkn perfect.....Also a lot can be said about helmet design and flapping jackets,vortex shedding,etc.But this didnt affect the bandit or indeed other bikes ive ridden over the years with RWU forks..And one tip is for fucks sake dont loosen your grip on the bars.They have snatched out of my hands once and i thought i was a gonner,,It was shear luck that they came back into my hands and i gripped hold and backed off untill it settled down again.....