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PostPosted: 08 Jan 2012 20:23 
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proff. patpending
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Maybe you need one of these:

Quote:
786-27001-4.2 Needle Valve Ass’y (42/45)


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mikuni-Needle ... 2314ffb588

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PostPosted: 08 Jan 2012 22:11 
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richie wrote:
spondon440 wrote:
I have no reason to argue with anything said either except turn your fuel tap off everytime you stop or you will be buying a new engine Ash, you have been warned :idea:
This is not to be confused with what happens to any other bike although that said, I left the fuel tap on the wifes Lambretta with a full tank and it ran straight through the engine, out the exhaust and completely covered the garage floor :shock: needless to say it didn't start till I emptied the crankcase and the exhaust of fuel.
its worse than this on your Buell.
Andy

unless it's a Buell Blast......eeerrr BLAST lOl



Have no problems at all the with Blast. Don't need to turn the fuel off at all..... unless removing the tank.... :idea: lOl

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PostPosted: 09 Jan 2012 08:20 
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pash wrote:
Maybe you need one of these:

Quote:
786-27001-4.2 Needle Valve Ass’y (42/45)


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mikuni-Needle ... 2314ffb588


Is this the standard one as they come in different flow rate sizes ?

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PostPosted: 09 Jan 2012 08:25 
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proff. patpending
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Tis for the HSR42

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PostPosted: 09 Jan 2012 09:15 
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I have just read this thread through, and I experience pretty much the same as you Ash. I find it extremely irritating to have to keep on turning the fuel tap on and off, and I keep on forgetting! :oooops: I can cope with the rough running first thing though, but since I put a Forcewinder on, mine sometimes backfires when I start it from warm. Are people suggesting that the tap needs switching off for short stops, like filling up? :? You can bring back fuel injection for me :evil:

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PostPosted: 09 Jan 2012 12:44 
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I think some people on here may be missing the point. It's always been really quite simple. If you have a carb and a petcock, turn the fecker off when you're done riding the bike, and turn it back on before you start it? How hard can that be?

My X1 also had a Mikuni conversion. *Never* had any issues with cold morning starts, and a bit of a bang is not an issue. It goes bang because the choke is injecting too much fuel into the combustion chamber (it's running rich to keep the engine running until the cylinders and pistons warm up properly). Some of that fuel will make it out unburned into the exhaust, mix there with fresh oxygen and go *BANG*. So it's not an issue. I actually had a small threaded hole in one of my headers, which I used to open up every so often for a run. The bike would then suck in a little bit of air through the hole on the overun and make an almighty rattle... bam bam bam CRACK!.... :yup: Loved that sound. Not so much other people living in Tadley :hehe:

As for the hesitation and lack of throttle response when cold, I used to start the bike on the choke, and let it sit there idling for 2-3 minutes while I would put my kit on. Then push the choke in, blip the throttle a few times to keep the bike running and move off. And then for the next mile or so, simply blip the throttle if you come to a stop at the lights or something. Other than that it would be fine. I think Ash simply needs a bit more self confidence with this particular issue. It's not really a 'technical' problem. More like a solution looking for a problem. ;)

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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2012 11:07 
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battyone wrote:
Find that lovely orange wax built up in the float chamber.
Does it smell sickly sweet sort of like Xylene based thinners? - We found a similar thing here in an old Volvo my neighbour had. It had been stood for a good while (18months). The fuel pump gunged up with similar orangy shite. The muck that dropped into the earth stank the area out for weeks. The stuff we collected burnt with a heavy sooty flame.

Odd thing that it had been stood at his dads before then also (almost 5 years) - but with leaded fuel in the tank and it fired first time. It was filled with unleaded to move it to where it then stood in his yard.

Lead free fuel seems not to store (stagnated) well at all. My thoughts are that the hydrocarbon chains in the fuel polymerise.

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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2012 11:12 
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Lucky wrote:
I find it extremely irritating to have to keep on turning the fuel tap on and off,
There are such things as electrical fuel taps. Came standard on 1979 Guzzi Converts. Got one somewhere and yes it still worked.

I think I've seen such taps advertised somewhere - Goodridge (as in brake hoses)?

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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2012 12:10 
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proff. patpending
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And vacuum fuel taps.

But coming back to Mich's point, the attraction of the S1 and M1 is their rawness and simplicity. If you want creature comforts, you need a late S3, an X1 or an XB (or a Honda).

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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2012 12:54 
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pash wrote:
And vacuum fuel taps.

But coming back to Mich's point, the attraction of the S1 and M1 is their rawness and simplicity. If you want creature comforts, you need a late S3, an X1 or an XB (or a Honda).


Attachments:
honda 90.jpg
honda 90.jpg [ 15.02 KiB | Viewed 799 times ]

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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2012 13:11 
pash wrote:
Pull the choke out
Twist the throttle open and close it
Push the starter with a whiff of throttle
Couple of seconds at idle then pull away
Give it a couple of minutes of gentle riding, then choke off

If the engine is very unresponsive or cuts out, it is telling you it wants the choke on for longer...

:D


Same here

M2 had stood for about 7 weeks on the optimate up until late December. Just gave it a couple of squirts from the HS42's pump and it started first press of the button. Need to sort my choke though. Knob dropped off last summer and I need to fit a replacement bought in August ASAP.


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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2012 17:17 
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proff. patpending
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Well cool, but if it rains?

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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2012 17:19 
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Close the lid..... lOl


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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2012 17:43 
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smarty wrote:
Close the lid..... lOl

:rotfl:

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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2012 18:18 
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:rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl:

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