I've got a lovely machined front engine mount from Spondon/Andy ready to fit, and I'm sorted with bike stand and small hydraulic jack with wooden pad between engine and jack to hold/raise/lower engine. Got all torque values and new bolts etc.

However looking at the location the new mount needs to fit into I'm curious about how it will actually be inserted. It looks like it *might* slip in from the right side (facing the front of the bike) with a bit of wiggling once the old mount is removed.

Or I might be completely wrong and the mount needs to go in from the left (exhaust) side which will require the headers to be removed (groan) whih would obviously be better to do before removing the old front mount.

I've searched the site using various terms and not been able to find a how-to guide. Did I miss it, or can some kind person give me a steer in the right direction?

Thank you!

i expect there's a technique to it
but not having done it myself

or PM Ogri as he seems to have fitted one

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=24074&p=316182&hilit=front+engine+mount#p316182

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Feros Ferio

click on the link then scroll up & there is a picture of it fitted
& as your both in gods country , you will ken no doubt

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Feros Ferio

Update: Sorted!

I bit the bullet and undid the old one slowly. Cracked the two front engine bolts and the top bolt first to ensure they'd release ok. All good. Took the engine weight on the jack and once the top (vertical) bolt was released and free I fully unwound the two front bolts (figuring releasing them last would remove any strain or chance of damaging the threads in the head).

Once loose the old engine mount easily slides out towards the right side (side opposite the exhaust when viewed from the front). Needs a wee wiggle and turn but it clears everything easily.

New billet mount slips in easily from the same side and can be bolted up into the head to correct torque on the jack without a problem (I was concerned the stress might move the engine, but it didn't), and then the engine jacked up to allow the top bolt to go through the upper isolator.

Worth pointing out that the engine itself goes through an arc as it is being raised, so the apparent (initally disturbing) lack of alignment between new mount/bolt/upper receiving hole is resolved as the engine is jacked up and in the last few mm of movement swings perfectly into alignment and the bolt is pretty much a push-fit through the hole, just make sure you have the two big washers in before you go all the way up.

Much easier than I feared, definitely need a jack, and three hands! The mount that came off is made of feathers I think - it weighs virtually nothing and I can see whay the engine vibration will break them.

result

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Last year I joined a group for anti-social people
We haven't met yet.

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Feros Ferio