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PostPosted: 04 Nov 2012 19:48 
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proff. patpending
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I guess you need to call Blackbear, but not on a Monday as they are not open :?

They were about 70 notes last time I bought one, however saying that it looks like they are now 180 inc VAT

PN Y1302.02A8

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PostPosted: 05 Nov 2012 09:05 
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well thats progress for you then (doubled in price ) so do they last twice as long now then :?:
http://www.jerseyh-d.com/products/27629 ... onnec.aspx

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PostPosted: 05 Nov 2012 09:11 
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proff. patpending
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I bet BB can match that...

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PostPosted: 06 Nov 2012 18:40 
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okay so here's the verdict. I had the bike in at Dynomite in Bournemouth and Frank said that the output was 14.8v which is apparently a little more than you would expect to see but borderline to whether that is an issue or not. That said the bike also vibrates a lot more than the average bike does so that may be just enough to kill the headlamps i.e. the filament burning hotter because of the higher voltage and because its burning hotter it also breaks up a lot easier by the vibration. Makes sense to me, but the question I have is ....

What is the normal operating voltage on other 2008 Uly's ...... anybody got some figures to compare?

Also, seems BB, DG20 and Shaw all come in at the same price of 127 quid after the UKBEG discount (10%). Shaw on the other hand will post free of charge as the other two charge around 6 quid. Pretty sure if I tell BB that they would match the price to be honest. Also DG20 have one in stock where the other 2 would have to order in.

After being in to Dynomite, having the switch lubed, earth and charge checked and both lightbulbs replaced, I got a mile down the road and 'pop went the weasle' yet again. So pretty sure its the regulator but not looking forward to spending another 130 quid again. As it is my bike has turned into the laughing stock of the parking lot at work ;0(

Hopefully this will be the last of the problems


Last edited by marshy on 06 Nov 2012 18:45, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 06 Nov 2012 18:43 
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proff. patpending
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Hmm, looks like Jersey is a bit of a rip off then...

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PostPosted: 06 Nov 2012 20:00 
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Judging from some log files (many different bikes), voltage is between 13.5 and 15 volts. But very short spikes go unnoticed, this is valid for any multimeter and ECM monitoring also.

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PostPosted: 06 Nov 2012 22:32 
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So Gunter would you say that a consistent 14.8 volts is too much for my lightbulbs to handle?


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PostPosted: 06 Nov 2012 22:41 
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Nope.

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PostPosted: 06 Nov 2012 22:42 
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marshy wrote:
So Gunter would you say that a consistent 14.8 volts is too much for my lightbulbs to handle?

What Gunter is saying is that there may be spikes higher than that that neither ecmspy or a digital meter is picking up because of the short duration of them ;)

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PostPosted: 07 Nov 2012 08:36 
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you could just try these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-X-Car-H7-68 ... 20c8b4739e
as others have said 14.8v is ok after all said and done a 12v battery isn't 12volts when fully charged more like 13.8-14.2volts so you bulbs should handle the extra 1 volt .
it's the how long or how tall a short spike is that counts :idea:
http://www.pvv.org/~syljua/merc/TooSeptST07.pdf
http://blog.circuitspecialists.com/test ... cilloscope

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PostPosted: 10 Nov 2012 21:51 
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Okay so sussed when they are blowing. Lights are fine at startup and most of the time up until the CEL comes on and stays on for around a minute or two before going back off. Its always been that the lights have been fine before and then not after CEL has been on so assume that whatever voltage is being pumped when the CEL is on is going to be much higher than 14.8v. I also think that this has been and issue for some time now as this has happened a few times over the past year or so. I think the light bulb thing has just become worse because the spikes have recently become worse (higher voltage than before). I also think that the reason why I am not seeing this manifest itself anywhere else is because I'm usually cruising in a straight line (no indicators, heated grips, horn, etc) when the CEL lights up.

Above is all assumption from my side so actually hoping that I can prove it sometime soon .... probably the only person ever to actually want the CEL to come on. Would love to see the look on that policemans face when I pull onto the hard shoulder and rush to pull out my voltmeter ;0). On second thought I may just buy one of those ones that you plug into the accessory jack. Wish me luck


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PostPosted: 10 Nov 2012 21:56 
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proff. patpending
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If you logged some data with ECMSpy you would see what the voltage was when the CEL comes on. If it was high, you would know it was a regulator failure, if it was low it could point to an earthing issue.

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PostPosted: 10 Nov 2012 22:03 
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barney wrote:
you could just try these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-X-Car-H7-68 ... 20c8b4739e
as others have said 14.8v is ok after all said and done a 12v battery isn't 12volts when fully charged more like 13.8-14.2volts so you bulbs should handle the extra 1 volt .
it's the how long or how tall a short spike is that counts :idea:
http://www.pvv.org/~syljua/merc/TooSeptST07.pdf
http://blog.circuitspecialists.com/test ... cilloscope



Barney, thanks for the links, some very useful information there. I have considered LED bulbs but just felt that I would be masking a bigger issue and something that could potentially cause some unnecessary damage as it escalates. I think the only solution here is to replace my R/R as Ive checked all the earths and cannot see any other reason for the spikes.


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PostPosted: 11 Nov 2012 08:40 
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Excuse me Geltlemen, may I just chip in and ask what is a CEL ? :?


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PostPosted: 11 Nov 2012 08:53 
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Check Engine Light i believe

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