Just got back from a weekend away to find one of the bolts snapped in my top motor mount. The bike was vibrating more at low revs on the way home.. now I know why. Can you remove the snapped bolt in situ, or will the head have to come off, and if so can that be done without dropping the motor?

Access doesn't look that good for drilling etc.. Looks like its snapped just below flush on head, but I can't be sure until I get the mount off. Gutted.. bike was running really well too

Had just saved up the cash for an AST shock too.. bollox

It'll be the LH bolt that's snapped and you'll be VERY lucky to get it out without removing the head........usually need sparking out

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Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

....where you getting the AST from ?

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Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

You could try an 'easy-out' but if that works buy a lottery ticket straight away. As the blue bird says spark erosion and removal of the head.

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Buell X1 PBS

I did one in place a few years back, I used a male spline socket hammered into the centre of a carefully drilled hole, you will have to heat it ( I have a propane gas torch) I reckon its worth a go before you go pulling the head

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Last year I joined a group for anti-social people
We haven't met yet.

......always worth a go......if you snap an extractor in the stud you really haven't lost much cos the sparking will take care of that too.

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Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

Ok thanks for the advice so far. Could spark eroding damage thread in head to the point it'll need helicoiling? We used to use this to salvage avionics components at Marconi, and it often used to make small fine threads oversize.

The AST shock was going to be ordered from Ronnie Maz

I know a couple of people that have removed the broken remains of the bolt by very very carefully welding and building the bolt length up until they could weld a nut to that and then screw the remains out (the heat from welding frees off the remains) ......................One of these guys is a professional welder though as great care would be needed to prevent doing further damage .

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2001 X1 2009 1125CR 2006 Uly X3 2010 Uly a fully Maz'd S1 and a 1991 RS1200 Westwind.

I removed the front head and took it to a local engineering company, they drilled a bolt thro' the centre, then cut it to length and then 'puddle' welded it to to top of the remains of the old one (15mm inside the head). They then extracted the remains with a socket, told me that the heat broke the seal and pointed out that it could have been done insitu....charged me 10 quid

I could have saved all the time and trouble of the rebuild and gasgits etc (not cheap) ....live and learn.

PS Spondon 440 does a good billet replacement for the mount

good luck m8.

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xxxx

As Kev says, Had mine removed by a good mechanic last year it's worth a try before you pull the head, it worked for me. Good luck.

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No 1: X1 Lightning.2000. Fully Mazed
No 2: KTM 1290R Superduke SE

The world maybe round but you can still find the Edge.

I did mine with the "welding" method. It came out easy, if you know a welder try it.

Interestingly, Buell get their front mount bolts from here:

http://www.f911.com/

180,000 psi is equivalent to a 12.9 grade

More info on SAE grade equivalents here...

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08 Specialized Langster

Why didn't Buell just make the barrel to take larger diameter bolts

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Should Have Stuck To making Tubers

Or strengthen the mount at the bottom to stop the sideways force on the bolts when the engine is loaded, like the XB, Spondon440 and NRHS mounts?

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08 Specialized Langster

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Earlier style mount

Buell fecked up



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Bottom pic shows the Nallin mount which is exactly like the earlier Buell mount apart from the tie bar mount

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Should Have Stuck To making Tubers