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 Post subject: Problem getting neutral
PostPosted: 11 Sep 2012 06:48 
Hi,
Wonder if anyone can help?
All of a sudden I'm having a real problem getting neutral gear, it goes in if I let the clutch out in gear just to the bite or when the bike is moving but not at stand still!......any ideas?

Cheers.


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PostPosted: 11 Sep 2012 07:08 
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proff. patpending
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Clutch needs adjusting?
Clutch actuator step on it's way out?

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PostPosted: 11 Sep 2012 18:26 
Hey thanks for the info.
Problem sorted........clutch cable adjustment, too much play!
All is now well.
Ta!


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PostPosted: 11 Sep 2012 18:35 
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......but did you adjust the clutch ?

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PostPosted: 11 Sep 2012 22:30 
Do you think I need to do that? ......I had a new pair of Pazzo levers fitted and when I adjusted the span there was no problem.....all gears now slip in as smooth as you like!


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PostPosted: 11 Sep 2012 23:03 
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Up to you......a new clutch (parts only) is now £360 :)

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PostPosted: 11 Sep 2012 23:19 
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Nanny Brown
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Maz wrote:
Up to you......a new clutch (parts only) is now £360 :)



OK....I'll bite. How would you check clutch ok? Would you just replace it 'just in case' at a cost of £360, or .... hope that its ok and just replace it if it goes wrong for £360?

Also, how would you know/check if the clutch cable adjustment wasn't enough??

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PostPosted: 12 Sep 2012 09:27 
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You never adjust the free-play on any cable until the mechanism at the other end has been checked/adjusted to being just off the 'operating point', else the first part of lever/pedal travel is wasted just taking the mechanism to that point.
This is true whether it is a clutch or a brake on a motorbike and indeed the handbrake on a car...
On the Buell (well, Tubers at least), the cable is first slackened right off, the clutch cover is removed, followed by a spring and a locking plate, the adjusting screw for the ramp is then turned anti-clockwise 'til it just bottoms (which is the 'operating point'), then clockwise a 1/4 turn (to give it a bit of room), then the plate spring and cover are refitted...the clutch mechanism is now adjusted.
Only THEN is the cable is adjusted to give the usual freeplay at the lever (generally a couple of mm between the lever and its mount).
It's all 'in the book'... it only takes 10 minutes tops and really improves the clutch action and feel.

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PostPosted: 12 Sep 2012 09:36 
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wildhenry wrote:
All of a sudden I'm having a real problem getting neutral gear

what's happened or changed recently to create this all of a sudden problem :?:
wildhenry wrote:
Problem sorted........clutch cable adjustment, too much play!
Ta!

why all of a sudden too much play in cable :?:
wildhenry wrote:
.I had a new pair of Pazzo levers fitted and when I adjusted the span there was no problem.....all gears now slip in as smooth as you like!

non standard levers with adjustable stroke (travel could be less than standard or more )
check workshop manual or poss how to section
The cable is the last thing you adjust
first thing is actuator in left hand cover

interesting choice of word whilst talking about clutch
wildhenry wrote:
Do you think I need to do that? ......I had a new pair of Pazzo levers fitted and when I adjusted the span there was no problem.....all gears now slip in as smooth as you like!


Jill Brown wrote:
OK....I'll bite. How would you check clutch ok?

:D :D :couch:

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PostPosted: 12 Sep 2012 10:13 
Hi all,
Good to see there is lots of advice out there....thank you!
To be more specific I only changed the span to a wider setting on the lever, this in turn reduced the play making changing very smooth.
You got me worried about my clutch now!

Cheers.


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PostPosted: 12 Sep 2012 12:30 
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Nanny Brown
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barney wrote:
Jill Brown wrote:
OK....I'll bite. How would you check clutch ok?

:D :D :couch:


Yes.....when I re-read what I posted, I realised my choice of wording was (unintentionally) quite apt.... lOl

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PostPosted: 12 Sep 2012 16:34 
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wildhenry wrote:
Hi all,
Good to see there is lots of advice out there....thank you!
To be more specific I only changed the span to a wider setting on the lever, this in turn reduced the play making changing very smooth.
You got me worried about my clutch now!

Cheers.



The advice re adjusting the clutch is correct, but changing the span on the Pazzo will have no effect on the free play in the cable - I think the problem is in the terminology here. All you are doing is changing the distance between lever and bar. The part of the lever that the cable nipple fits into remains in the same place.

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PostPosted: 12 Sep 2012 16:47 
Then how come when I adjusted the span down to number '3' all was well?


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PostPosted: 12 Sep 2012 17:08 
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wildhenry wrote:
Then how come when I adjusted the span down to number '3' all was well?



Because you're pulling in more cable.
Think about it in reverse, on the brake side for eg. If you 'took in the slack' on a lever on a hydraulic system, which has very little free play (or zero for the sake of argument), then you would be applying the front brake.

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PostPosted: 12 Sep 2012 20:05 
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Wildhenry wrote:
Problem getting neutral


Have you considered moving to Switzerland :?:

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