Can someone advise me whether I have to drop the swingarm to get the fuel pump out? I read somewhere that you could wiggle it out if you take the bottom shock bolt out. I've done that but it only drops an inch if that. I've got the belt and engine sprocket cover off and see a big spindle, if I remove that will it simply drop OK with the oil pipes still connected? I'll take some pics tomorrow and post on the how to if I can do it with or without dropping the swinger off
The pump has always made a racket but has been no bother until my last trip where if you gave it some it spluttered - its even spluttered on steady throttle only about 5 or 6 times in total over 4 days and nearly 500 miles. I did fit those imodium plugs prior to my trip to stop any shit To my surprise it still had the ol' HD ones in there probably from 2002? It does rev crisper with the iridium though. Dont suppose it could be the plugs could it? I bought the new pump unit on ebay for over £200 inc shipping so I reckon I'll fit it anyway and offer my old unit as spares/repairs. Any help and advice greatly appreciated.

Swingarm will have to come out.....no big deal.
Iridium plugs are a waste of money.
You may have to make a pump puller and new O rings are advised.

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Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

Thanks Maz, I have a mate who owns a motor factors, he gave me the plugs for nowt - Oh hang on I bought him a couple o' beers! Bugger, that prob cost more than the plugs.
So if I just remove the spindle will it just drop ok with the oil pipes still attached? Resting on an ol' tyre or sommat? The new pump has got the O rings on it. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252019597799

I'd seen online it was possible without dropping the 'arm also but IIRC the guy was working on a Ulysees which maybe gave more clearance, I dunno.

Manual says drop the 'arm and concurs! They say a lazy man does twice the work, (once the 'quick' way and once properly when the shortcut doesn't work), so it's good to get clarification as it's a job I have to do at some point soon, I'm more concerned about supporting the bike without it toppling - might be employing a couple of ratchet straps from the roof truss

Hello Tommygunn, looks like the arms coming off then, I am a lazy bugger tho'.
I'll take some pics of my progress.
I have my Buell in a front wheel chock and raised the rear with my paddock stand and then let it down on two axle stands under the foot peg supports after unbolting the rear brake lever. Pics to follow.
It feels very steady. I always found the back end swings about too much when suspended from the rafters.

I pulled the arm on my Uly. There wasn't much room to play with when the arm was in. I hoisted the rear from the rafters and pulled the front down (on a bike ramp).

I was lucky and didn't need a pump extractor tool, but as Maz says (and Baden Powell) 'be prepared'.

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08 Specialized Langster

I found this useful

http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/artikelen ... =7&aid=619

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08 Specialized Langster

Awesome, thanks Pash

I've started a new thread in the Tech. http://www.ukbeg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=20610

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08 Specialized Langster

[quote=
I always found the back end swings about too much when suspended from the rafters.[/quote]

A tip for those who haven't already hit upon it, for anyone reading this I found also that supporting my Uly from the roof joists it does indeed tend to swing around a lot and doesn't inspire a lot of confidence saftey wise. Until I tried simply crossing the straps over, instead of having them perpendicular/vertical off the bike so to speak, conclusion no-more swinging around very stable indeed. Simples.

Cool, good idea. I might have to remove the footpeg hanger and that's what me axle stand is on. Where on the bike do you hang it from? I took me rear pegs off years ago and can only find one at the mo'.

If I remember correctly on my Uly I fixed each of the rear ratchet type webbing straps type around the rear subframe, each side where the hand grips are this appeared to be strong and secure enough to do the job. On the front I kept them as wide as possible on the handlebars without interferring with the controls etc. One point to consider, I only ever had either the front or rear off the deck at any one time depending on which end I was working on, this way with one wheel always on the deck helps to support one end or the other, and of course alleviates some of the weight.
Hope this is of some help to you.

I was thinking that whilst looking at your progress post!

I might have access to a transmission jack which looks like it ought to slip under the muffler just right - I'm pretty sure the factory race exhausts have the internal reinforcement for jacking, (guess we'll find out!), so, with luck the ratchet strapping will just be for stability, (crossed straps - sounds like a hot tip!)

Jobs a good un. I left it on the axle stands as there was bags o' room once the swinging arm was dropped outa the way.
http://www.buelligan.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/drop-swing-arm.jpg

In real time it's a job that can be done in a couple o' hours.
Do yourself a favour and remove the bottom drive belt cover while your at it. I've had 3 XB9Rs and I've been through a fair few belts from stones getting pulled round the sprocket. The bottom cover catches and holds the gravel they spread on the roads. They bounce about trying to get a ride on your belt and pierce the bugger It took me a while to figure it out but after removing the bottom cover I've had no bother in the last 6 years