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PostPosted: 25 May 2010 22:46 
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Joined: 06 May 2009 14:09
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Old studs are out, do I use loctite, anti-sieze compound or nothing on the new studs?
Anyone recommend a torque for the studs?
Is 6-8 ftlbs enough torque for the exhaust nuts?
Thanks for any advise,
John


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PostPosted: 27 May 2010 12:37 
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Bump.
Lots of gen on here and elswhere about removing broken studs, so lots of you have replaced these studs.
What's the best advise on fitting new ones?
A link to a previous post maybe?
Please?
Thanks,
John


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PostPosted: 27 May 2010 12:46 
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Current ride: M2 Razorback
Location: Mouth of the Port in the Shire of Hamp
I would certainly use 'coppaslip' on the threads...you might want to get them out again some day....
Sorry can't advise you on the torque setting....

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PostPosted: 27 May 2010 14:50 
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Thanks for the reply rik,
John


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PostPosted: 27 May 2010 20:39 
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Yep, copperslip and just nip the studs into the heads ie. no need to tighten them at all.

Torque setting for the flange nuts is meaningless, they just need to be 'snugged' enough to compress the gaskets whilst keeping the flanges square to the ports......only experience can teach this :idea:

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PostPosted: 27 May 2010 22:01 
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Thanks for that Maz.
John


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PostPosted: 16 Aug 2015 12:40 
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Joined: 17 Oct 2009 14:29
Posts: 44
Current ride: Lightening X1
Location: surrey
2001 X1
I was preparing my bike for MOT and found yet again a broken head stud for the exhaust flange clamp.
last year I fitted a new set of studs and nuts having broken off one before

Is there any defined best practice or modification to make them last longer?
I do accept my silencer was loose as well which cannot help.
On badweb someone suggested the later XB flanges have a better design.
Bearing in mind big twin engine vibrations, is stainless more or less likely to fracture than steel.
Is there a good brand of bolt kit to use. There are lots on ebay but only some are branded and then what quality standards do the brands employ.
I read a lot of stuff about anti seize and it seems copaslip is good enough. Does everyone agree ( or is this another tyres / oil faux pas)?


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PostPosted: 16 Aug 2015 18:11 
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Current ride: 99 Cyclone M2
Location: Liverpool
Have you checked your front and rear isolators and possibly the exhaust mounting brackets, I've had mine 14 years and it's never broken an exhaust stud

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PostPosted: 16 Aug 2015 18:58 
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Current ride: 1991 RS1200 westwind
I've had Muffin 14 years and not had any broken studs either, I only ever fit new studs if the old one unscrews from the head instead of the nut undoing, the biggest cause of studs breaking is from other issues with the exhaust system ie the system is not bolted in a relaxed position it has been forced into place by tightening studs or clamps.

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PostPosted: 16 Aug 2015 23:42 
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Current ride: M2 Razorback
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:yt: Gus and
:yt: Kev
...but 15 years with my M2. It's impossible to describe 'feel', just something you acquire after years of working with tools and fasteners... :old:

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PostPosted: 17 Aug 2015 14:12 
An old guy told me that if you farted doing up a nut or bolt then it was too tight...... no he didn't, I read it somewhere.


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PostPosted: 17 Aug 2015 20:23 
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rik wrote:
:yt: Gus and
:yt: Kev
...but 15 years with my M2. It's impossible to describe 'feel', just something you acquire after years of working with tools and fasteners... :old:



:yt: :yt: :yt: lOl

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