My cr has often given a burp or miss around 3000 when out for a ride and sometimes stalls on a downshift which is fun.... But sometimes its as good as gold and always goes like sh*t off a shiny shovel...
Yesterday it was apparent this was getting worse and the ic then showed crank position sensor intermittent fault code.
Pulled the sensor out to check for any metal whiskers and checked and cleaned the connector under the left side pod. I passed a steel rod over the sensor whilst the ign was on as a rough test of the circuit and it worked every time. This bike has had a rotor mod,new stator wound and mosfet rectifier in march 2017 before I owned it, so wondered if the exchange rotor had the 'mismachined' teeth and the sensor was picking up the stubs ....sort of too sensitve?....I placed a very thin washer under the sensor to increase the gap to the rotor teeth and stubs and the bike ran flawlessly except it seemed low on voltage according to the IC ,decreasing as I was riding. Then the battery light came on and a dash for home ensued. Charged the battery, and checking the ouput from the stator, 1-2,2-3,1-3, at 2000rpm I have a very low reading between 1-3. Bolloxs.
Checking resistance on the stator plug 1-2,2-3,1-3 and each pin between ground , all seem to show 0 ohms whichever scale I chose on the digital multimeter.
Highly unlikely the faults are connected but it does sound like the bike could have eaten stator#2 ?

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Caution: I run with scissors.

I guess that's a yes then....awww bugger...

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Caution: I run with scissors.

I'm not gonna say who did the rewind in the past that has just burnt out as I don't want to suggest anything...but can anyone recommend a stator rewind specialist from past experience?

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You'll not find a better rewind than the one that was done

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Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

Hmmm.....ok....not sure how that can be proven looking at the evidence. The reg checks out ok and I can't see any other issues that might have caused this: I know its been hot lately but the bike never looked like it was suffering except from dwindling voltage...once bitten and all that.....

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Had my stator go one week before trip to france.Elliot motorcycles of cricklade rewound stator in 4 days using higher temperature wire and said 1125 rewinds last about 3 years if I did not do rotor mod.Did not have time before trip to do this,however I did fit an electrex world series v/reg and after 8500 miles no problems so far.I still have the Harley bandaid on but change the relay in this every 1500 miles.You can get tyco relays off ebay for around £3,about £8 cheaper than OE.Will do rotor mod next time it fails.

Cheers for the reply.....I don't have the band aid fitted but a mosfet is fitted and the rotor mod has been done so I am a little confused as to why this rewind lasted a year and 3k miles tops.
The use of higher temp wire seems like a sensible solution and I'm unsure what was used on the current damaged stator.....Did you send the stator to Elliots as I had a quick peek at their website and that sort of work isn't listed.....?

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Anyone had any experience with TWIN motorcycles in the Netherlands ? They supply stators wound with 240 deg wire and I'm keen to give the bike some longevity......

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Exactly the same as WCR......issue is probably down the the Mosfet reg......they get incredibly hot and should really be mounted out in the breeze

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Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

Maz, cheers for the info re WCR wire specs.....I haven't contacted them for those details yet. The reg does get hot, maybe too hot to touch. Is it still serviceable in your opinion?.....checks out ok earth bleed wise.
Sounds like a repositioning is on the cards, I have seen alternative locations on the American sites .

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Anyone fitted the shendengan SH847 Rect/reg or the compufire 55402?..Both are series type RR that seem more sympathetic when stator fragility is an issue. I appreciate a mosfet is an improvement over the original shunt type fitted but it is still a shunt RR when all is said and done.
Looking at some specs for a mosfet it was said that a benefit of the mosfet was its ability to self preserve itself in the event of getting too hot and it would switch off....which doesn't sound too clever for the stator.... Just saying....

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Not had a lot to do with Buell charging problems, but MAZ is right about airflow on Rectifiers/Regulators
We had the same problem with Honda Africa twins and Transalps and the remedy was increased airflow and the fitting of a thick alloy heat sink behind the item to help get the heat away and some also went as far as to use 12v computer fans, they worked but cant say that this is your solution just that HEAT is your enemy and getting rid is your way forward.


Churchill

Fair point about airflow and especially so with any shunt RR....mosfets included. From my experience, the mosfet on my 1125 runs super hot, feck, I can't touch it hot . Whereas the series type, by virtue of it's switching off rather than dumping the output from the stator.....

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So the stator was sent to Westcountry rewind for its second repair and I have ordered a series RR from http://www.roadstercycle.com in the US.: an SH847 which is recommended for fragile stators by virtue of it's operation. It "switches off" the stator when output is not required keeping its operation electrically at 0 % rather than shunting or dumping it when not required which maintains 100 % operation. The stunting 100% is how the OEM RR works and also the MOSFET RR albeit slightly faster than the original. The point is,they are both shunt units.
Along with the modified rotor, and cooler ambient temps, I hope this will nurse the stator to a long life . That and me no longer riding like a lemon and in future, keeping the revs up to promote oil flow! I tend to short shift it due to riding a lot of singles .....

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Caution: I run with scissors.