I wonder if one of you kind ladies or gents can assist me.

I have an electrical problem. Changed the handlebars and added some new indicators. Put it all back together and EVERYTHING works except no green Neutral light and no ignition startup.

Checked with meter at kill switch/on/off on the bars and I’m getting 12V at the starter/kill switches terminals.

I’ve got the manual so looked there in the troubleshooting and it says a dead neutral light can be either a burst bulb or the neutral switch in the engine casing has died. What its NOT clear on (or I've not noticed it) is how interconnected each of these possible faults/functions are.

So to clarify that, I have a few questions:

A) If the neutral indicator bulb blows is it in a circuit that will prevent the ignition from working? (So fixing the bulb makes the circuit live?)

B) If the neutral switch has died does that not only stop the neutral indicator light working but also disable the ignition from functioning?

C) Clutch lever switch - will that affect Neutral light & ignition function if its where the problem lies?

Any help or guidance gratefully received!

Pull the lead off the neutral switch and earth it, neutral lamp should light, if it doesn't then the idiot lamp has either blown or has a bad connection in it's holder (very common)
Either which way, pulling the clutch in should see the starter spin and engine start up.
In summary, the neutral switch earths the starter relay but if the bike is in gear for instance, pulling the clutch in also earths the start relay.....hope this helps ?

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Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

Yes that helps thanks Maz.

You said "Either which way, pulling the clutch in should see the starter spin and engine start up."

So by that do you mean even if the neutral light or switch is goosed the starter should work? (earthing through the clutch switch). And if it doesn't does that mean the starter relay might be toast?

Right, thanks to Maz's advice I have now established that the culprit is the neutral switch itself behind the main drive sprocket/pulley. This is, for those that know, a really awkward spot to try to remove it from.

However I have seen a method that claims to be able to do it without the need for removal of the drive pulley on a Buell Blast, involving a deep socket (maybe 60/70mm) and grinding off half of the lower edge so it slips around the visible half of the switch.

Anyone know of this will work on the M2 as well? Or is the only way to remove the drive sprocket off the pulley?

try spraying the switch with contact cleaner first you may get lucky

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Feros Ferio

Good suggestion, thank you! Will do.

jocklandjohn
worked for me on an ully used a box spanner off ebay and cut down in length so that it fitted behind pulley and on to switch , you only need to turn it 1/2 -- 1 full turn and its finger tight then to remove , same when refitting , place switch in cut down box spanner , tighten by finger then final tighten with tommy bar through box spanner

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Buell Ulysses XB12X 06/08

Aha! Thats really good to know! Thank you! Socket is ordered anyway and grinder plugged in ready to go!

I did notice 20 mins ago when I removed the drive belt off the sprocket that the whole sprocket is 'loose'. The big nut is tight as far as I can see but the pulley itself has some movement within the constraints of the lockplate which is held on with the cap screws. Is this normal? Or should the pully be rock solid and only move according to the crank rotation?

Should be rock solid....has the pulley been painted ?
You'll need to remove the pulley and check the splines....fortunately the splines in the pulley are sacrificial ie. they tear out without damaging the output shaft.

_________________
Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

Look carefully, are you sure it isn't movement in the output shaft bearing you are feeling?

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Try doing this to yer fueller...........

No, never painted, and I'm the only owner, and its never been touched since new, apart from factory recall fixes by HD dealers.

[/quote]
Look carefully, are you sure it isn't movement in the output shaft bearing you are feeling?[/quote]


No shaft seems solid, but the whole sporcket can be moved up/down and left/right and the movement has worn the locking plate. The nut appears tight enough but the play in the pulley is not what I'd expect. I can post a short video tomorrow maybe and let you see, but something needs tightening or replacing.

You WILL need to remove the pulley and check the splines.....which also makes replacing the neutral switch much easier.
You will need a new pulley nut and follow the tightening sequence to the letter !......if you were closer I could do the whole job in less than half an hour and have all the parts in stock.

_________________
Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

Ah well its out with the spanners then! So much for an easy fix of a neutral switch!

is the nut a left hand thread on the pulley nut Maz

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Feros Ferio