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PostPosted: 09 Sep 2021 14:39 
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Joined: 04 Sep 2021 19:02
Posts: 14
Current ride: 1125R
Jazzbutcher wrote:
If you have the airbox bottom off check the engine breather, it just slots in about 2 inches from the rear & the little foam filter that's in the end can clog with oil & drip onto the engine. Just take the foam bit out & clean it. It's worth doing anyway even if it isn't that.
Hope you get it sorted.


Cheers for the tip. I'll take a look when I get a mo. Sidetracked looking after a mate who's ran out of road on his KTM at the moment. If anyone needs any blackberries I've got a fair few in amongst plastics and handlebars of a KTM lOl


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PostPosted: 09 Sep 2021 15:00 
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Joined: 05 May 2009 20:00
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Current ride: X1 2001
Location: southampton
:rotfl: :rotfl:

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PostPosted: 10 Sep 2021 00:05 
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Joined: 04 Sep 2021 19:02
Posts: 14
Current ride: 1125R
Stator slapped backed on the bike, only 1 or 2 AC volts showing across all of the phases. Multimeter tested against another running bike stator just to rule that out as an issue. Looks as if stator is toast. My guess is that it was down to just one phase when I bought it and that's why the clock backlights flickered and now the last phase has burnt out. I've not looked at the back of my stator as I didn't pry it off the sealant holding it in the engine case. Pic attached shows it installed in case and rotor, what you reckon? It's a bit crusty in one part for sure.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/NsyWae5HtyRbh3gi7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/4iuD5V67jX3Jjz5o8

My smoke issue seems to be the breather. I think that may have blown off the bottom of the air box. Certainly blows a bit.

[youtube]https://youtu.be/Ur3FvR4wtpE[/youtube]


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PostPosted: 10 Sep 2021 06:04 
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Joined: 07 Nov 2011 18:10
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Current ride: Buell ulysses
Location: Telford
" It's a bit crusty in one part for sure."
:yt:

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PostPosted: 10 Sep 2021 13:59 
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Joined: 04 Sep 2021 19:02
Posts: 14
Current ride: 1125R
West country rewinds have quoted me £141 for a rewind and they sell the rmstat series r/r for £126. Sounds like the way to go. WCR were very helpful btw, certainly well versed on the 1125. Is it worth doing the hildstrom rotor mod?


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PostPosted: 10 Sep 2021 17:15 
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Joined: 05 May 2009 20:00
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Current ride: X1 2001
Location: southampton
barney wrote:
" It's a bit crusty in one part for sure."
:yt:


yes it needs rewinding

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PostPosted: 14 Sep 2021 23:05 
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Joined: 04 Sep 2021 19:02
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Current ride: 1125R
Is it worth doing the hildstrom mod or getting the updated oil spraying rotor while in there? Has anyone just run a new stator with series rectifier and had lasting success?

Anyone willing to rent out a locking tool or perhaps let me borrow one?


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PostPosted: 14 Sep 2021 23:15 
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Location: Manchester
You MUST have the oil jet drilled into the rotor or the stator will fail again.

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PostPosted: 15 Sep 2021 13:20 
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Joined: 04 Sep 2021 19:02
Posts: 14
Current ride: 1125R
What about the Hildstrom rotor mod? Any suggestions for places where either can be done in the UK? Twin motorcycles is an expensive option. £70 just to get the locking tool here let alone reworking my existing rotor.


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PostPosted: 09 May 2022 16:46 
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Joined: 04 Sep 2021 19:02
Posts: 14
Current ride: 1125R
Several months later...

The original rotor has been drilled as per hildstrom's method. Done on a CNC miller with indexed rotary table so done very accurately. Also, hole countersunk to create funnel effect to further increase air flow.

West country rewinds did the rewind on my stator. They also supplied a RMStator series rectifier (RMS022-106799). Everything fitted, initial testing went well. Idle charging voltage in the low 14s.

On a 15mi test run though, voltage as recorded on dash screen around 15, peaking at 15.3. Occasionally would drop to low 13s but majority of time at 15+.. The r/r became too hot to touch. Previous experience with FH Shindengen mosfet rectifiers I was expecting barely any heat, especially as this series r/r is supposed to run cooler than MOSFET shunt. At standstill, with multimeter I get 15 revving around 5k.

Any experience with this r/r on the 1125? It's going back to WCR for inspection. As a test, I put an FH012AA to check output voltage, max indicated by multimeter at 6k was 14.2v.

Cheers


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