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Getting back on the road
https://ukbeg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=25513		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  RevM [ 01 Jul 2024 17:42 ]
Post subject:  Getting back on the road
I wonder if any of you could advise?
I have a 2010 Ulysses XB12 XT which I've had from new. For the last few years it has been laid up in my garage. I have decided it is time to get back on it!
So, a bit of cleaning, new battery, oil change (both). I drained the old fuel by disconnecting the fuel hose from the fuel pump (seemed the easiest way) and added fresh fuel.
She turns over but there is no life.
Where should I looke next? Fuel pump perhaps? I'd really appreciate some suggestions.
Thanks.
Author:  brother in buells [ 01 Jul 2024 20:12 ]
Post subject:  Re: Getting back on the road
Check the sparkplugs if they work when turning the engine over
Remove the air filter housing and have a look into the intake if the injectors spray fuel.

If you know for sure there is spark from the plugs you also could try with spraying brakecleaner into the intake and try starting the engine.

Did the fuel pump run when turning the ignition key to on?
Author:  painauchoc [ 03 Jul 2024 12:38 ]
Post subject:  Re: Getting back on the road
found this in my google notes copied from 'somewhere'. might help you. more trouble shooting guides in the manual and the elec diag manual as well of course.


Starter Motor Does Not Operate or Does
Not Turn Engine Over

1. Engine stop switch in OFF position.
2. Ignition key switch not ON.
3. Discharged battery or loose or corroded connections.
(Solenoid chatters.)
4. Starter control relay or solenoid not functioning.
5. Electric starter shaft pinion gear not engaging or overrunning
clutch slipping.
6. Clutch lever not pulled in. Vehicle in gear.
7. Starter interlock circuit malfunction.


Engine Turns Over But Does Not Start
NOTE See 4.11 ENGINE CRANKS BUT WILL NOT START for specific tests.
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. Discharged battery, loose or broken battery terminal connections.
3. Fouled spark plugs.
4. Loose or shorting spark plug cables or connections.
5. Ignition timing badly out of adjustment.
6. Loose wire connection at coil or battery connection or
plug between ignition sensor and module. See Section 4.
7. Ignition coil not functioning.
8. Ignition module not functioning.
9. Ignition sensor not functioning.
10. Sticking or damaged valve or valves.
11. Engine oil too heavy (winter operation).
12. Ignition circuit interlock malfunction.
13. No output from the ECM. See dealer.
14. Inadequate fuel pressure in fuel lines (possible leak).
15. Clogged fuel filter.
16. Clogged fuel injectors.
17. Tripped bank angle sensor. Turn key to OFF, wait 15 seconds,
and then back to IGN again to start bike.
18. TP Sensor/fast idle screw not set properly. See dealer.
19. No output from CMP sensor. See dealer.
20. Inoperative fuel pump.

with key to ON and red run switch to ON you should hear it prime the system then stop till start is achieved. any other associated pump noises unacceptable and signify a pump unit problem.
a healthy pump assembly emits a pleasant and fairly quiet "purr" or "whirr" for a second or 2 till prime achieved. best way i can describe it.
Author:  RevM [ 19 Sep 2024 13:41 ]
Post subject:  Re: Getting back on the road
Just to bring you up to date, this may help someone else. I threw a teaspoon full of petrol down the air intake trumpet and it fired up immediately. And it didn't stop! I guess there must have been an air lock in the fuel line?
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