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PostPosted: 01 Oct 2010 12:10 
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proff. patpending
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Joined: 06 May 2009 20:20
Posts: 14705
Current ride: Victoria Sponge
Location: Bristol - Gateway to all things good
:maz: is your best bet...

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PostPosted: 04 Oct 2010 12:50 
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Joined: 07 Jul 2010 15:59
Posts: 20
Location: Walthamstow
Ran in my 12X briskly and changed oil and filter at 47 miles. HD service in Bristol at 1300 miles. ran beautifuuy then. Went to Portugal and back and had oil, filter and gearbox oil change at 7500. Sinc then oil filter and gearbox oil every 2500 miles plus primary chain adjustments. One belt at 11900 and a FS tensioner and rear wheel bearings this Weds. That's all. Will stick to 2500 mile stuff and get the bike serviced at Maz's at 20000 miles.


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PostPosted: 08 Oct 2010 15:05 
sidewaysdave wrote:
Also every so often the blue full beam light on the dash comes on, even though i haven't got full beam on, but when this happens all other power is lost. The bike stops running, no power to anything.


I hate to say it, as your bike has not been fixed by your dealer, but I had the EXACT SAME problem on my Uly.

It is caused by paint on the rear subframe loom Earth point face. This paint causes a high electrical resistance and makes the electrics go haywire. It also makes for harder starting and bad control of the engine via the ECM.

Its a VERY WELL know issue by HD, is posted on there Tech site and on this site. It takes 15 min to fix.

I am not saying that you do not have any other problems but this fixed all my running issues in an instant.

You will also find that a duel compound tyre like the Road Pilot 2CT works/lasts better. I have 7k on mine, still have 1k ish left on them and with a good profile. Although they are getting past there best now they still work very well. IMO they suit the Uly great, for road work, wet or dry. Much better than the Scorps or Corsa tyres I have had on the Uly before.


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PostPosted: 08 Oct 2010 15:50 
morini01 wrote:
The front brake is excellent but unless set to full hard settings dips far too much. The rear is weak but does its job.


Park up the bike. Undo the front suspension caps - they dont come off because they are USD forks. Squirt in 5 to 10ml, start with 5ml, of heavy suspension oil into each fork with a Hypo. Refit the caps. Bounce the forks plenty to mix the fluid. Re-set the suspension settings to the book. Road test the bike and adjust the suspension settings to how you like it.

You will find it dives less on braking and gives better road handling.

OEM rear pads are crap. I use SBS which are great but you cant get them anymore. Pash says Gold Fren work well. Maybe EBC etc. The rear will work fine with the right pads. Or at least mine does.


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PostPosted: 08 Oct 2010 16:03 
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proff. patpending
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Location: Bristol - Gateway to all things good
THE FLYING DUCHMAN wrote:
Pash says Gold Fren work well. Maybe EBC etc. The rear will work fine with the right pads. Or at least mine does.


Would never have tried GoldFren, however my S1 has the older Brembo caliper and GoldFren are the only sintered pads you can buy (apart from Ferodo). I really like them for control...

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PostPosted: 08 Oct 2010 16:20 
pash wrote:
THE FLYING DUCHMAN wrote:
Pash says Gold Fren work well. Maybe EBC etc. The rear will work fine with the right pads. Or at least mine does.


Would never have tried GoldFren, however my S1 has the older Brembo caliper and GoldFren are the only sintered pads you can buy (apart from Ferodo). I really like them for control...


Thats fair enough Pash. I forgot you had them on the S1.

I have to say that I have used the Golod Fren pads on two bikes now. They are not as good as Braking, EBC or SBS. They are, however, 100% better on an XB than the OEM ones IMO. At £13 over £60 for OEM Buell pads it makes you wonder some. The Gold Fren pads do need, I have found, to go through two sets on the XB to clean off the OEM pad coating to work at there best.

Blinding value for money IMO.


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PostPosted: 09 Oct 2010 06:36 
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Joined: 19 Oct 2009 21:25
Posts: 6
Location: blackburn
Thanks for the advice on my electrics and tyre advice. Got my uly back from HD dealer with new loom on it, only took them 2month's!! Will have some fun on it this weekend after 12month's of hardly any running. If all goes well, i'll go and get Maz'd to be on the safe side. If it goes wrong again i think i may just turn green & rip my shirt!!!!!!!!!!!


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PostPosted: 17 Oct 2010 14:38 
THE FLYING DUCHMAN wrote:
I also think, because of the single front disc, the brake fluid has a bit of harder time than most setups. After flushing the system and changing the fluid I have found that the front brake is a lot better now. Less travel, better feel/control and more power. In fact very nice for road work even with the Gold Fren pads. Costs £5 and 30 mins work :yup:.


I'm not sure about your reasoning as to why brake fluid has a harder time because of the single front disc??? There are lots of bikes, road, off-road and racers with a single front disc and they don't appear to have any issues with brake fluid. I think the reason for your front brake to feel better was simply the fact that you had changed the fluid.

The other thing is that from my experience, I wouldn't touch Gold Fren pads with a barge pole!!!! Instant fade and lots of brake dust!!!! The only pads I'd fit to my Buell are EBC HH they were the best single mod that I made to my bike.

Still, each to his own ;)


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PostPosted: 18 Oct 2010 21:49 
longdog_cymru wrote:
I'm not sure about your reasoning as to why brake fluid has a harder time because of the single front disc??? There are lots of bikes, road, off-road and racers with a single front disc and they don't appear to have any issues with brake fluid. I think the reason for your front brake to feel better was simply the fact that you had changed the fluid.

The other thing is that from my experience, I wouldn't touch Gold Fren pads with a barge pole!!!! Instant fade and lots of brake dust!!!! The only pads I'd fit to my Buell are EBC HH they were the best single mod that I made to my bike.

Still, each to his own ;)


You are, of course, quite right about the EBC pads over the GoldFren ones. If I was using my bike in normal conditions IE not much use of the front end, then I would use EBCs. The fact is that I am in town a lot and, for there use, GoldFren are fine and cost £12 over £36 plus for the EBCs. I find that on my Uly they make much less dust than the EBC or SBS pads I have used on the bike and on my bikes setup I can stop, with front and rear brake, from 60 to 0 in the length of a car in the dry.

I am on my second set and they have got better, from the first set, with no noted disc wear or fade. They do wear faster than EBCs but dont have the first bit of the EBCs or the all-out power. I would say they are a good all round pad but not a race pad. They, and I have proved it now on two bikes, are not shit pads and at £12 a set are blinding value for money IMO.

You are prob right with the fluid thing LongDog.


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PostPosted: 18 Oct 2010 22:19 
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Quote:
with front and rear brake, from 60 to 0 in the length of a car in the dry.


Yeah, right ........that must be one of those mega stretch limo things ? :roll:

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00 M2
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PostPosted: 18 Oct 2010 22:25 
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Joined: 12 Jul 2010 20:21
Posts: 707
Location: manchester
Maz wrote:
Quote:
with front and rear brake, from 60 to 0 in the length of a car in the dry.


Yeah, right ........that must be one of those mega stretch limo things ? :roll:


Pi$$ easy. 8-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Di1BIOo-Fms

lOl lOl


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PostPosted: 18 Oct 2010 23:09 
Ok fess up time. It was 4m and I needed 8 tries to do it.


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PostPosted: 18 Oct 2010 23:16 
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Joined: 15 Apr 2009 17:17
Posts: 8643
Location: Manchester
OK, let me get this straight.......forgetting about thinking/reaction time, you are saying you can take a bike from 60mph to zero in 4 metres ?

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Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR


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PostPosted: 18 Oct 2010 23:22 
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Needs more cowbell
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Joined: 03 Apr 2009 10:09
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Location: Southampton
Easy .....


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PostPosted: 18 Oct 2010 23:24 
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Joined: 12 Jul 2010 20:21
Posts: 707
Location: manchester
The title ain`t wrong. :rofl:


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