Would that be Ian Smail, by any chance?

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pbi5Ggmk ... re=related

I think Demon Tweeks sell the GR push on fittings - tis pure porn

Fekin hateful stuff that SS braided hose, you may as well wrap a bandsaw blade around your bike

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If your dreams don't scare you, they are not big enough.

I suspected that the potential abrasiveness of the lines might have something to do with them not being recommended. What about rubber mounted solid chrome pipes? Obviously running only solid lines on the side of the engine where they are visible and the rest leave flexible. Would the vibration kill them if they are properly rubber mounted in custom clamps?

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Illegitimi non carborundum

No The proper Custom method is get a snake (of the correct length ), shove its gob on the pump feed, and ram its arse into the oil tank

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If your dreams don't scare you, they are not big enough.

Here's my personal tip on how to get that big lump of pig iron back into the frame. The last two times I did this I used a big car jack and muscle power. But the engine is sooo heavy that if you're doing this alone you'll end up bumping into the inside of the frame rails and scratching the frame and engine while trying to get the thing in. Don't ask me how I know....

So, when I decided to take on the Harley lump, and realized that I couldn't even lift the fecking thing onto my frame jig table, I threw in the towel and got myself a cheap chinese engine hoist from eBay. Its collapsible so can be stowed away into a corner of the garage. VERY happy with the purchase! Has made my life soooo much easier.

Some tips for the uninitiated or those with a mechanical fetishism...


I used an old sheet wrapped around the engine to get it off the engine stand. The sheet is there because it has a bigger surface to grab onto the engine and hence leaves no marks in the paint. A rope would probably mark the fresh engine paint.


Deposit the engine onto a trolley...


...and roll under the bike...


Then lift gently while you check all the alignment and clearance. Never found it easier to get that engine back into the frame!

Just watch that the sheet doesn't squish or push onto any of the shifter shafts or any of the other shafts. You don't want to exert any unnecessary side or upwards pressure onto those components.

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Illegitimi non carborundum

Why didn't you fit the rocker covers?

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08 Specialized Langster

Nope - Paul (Hobbs I think). It was a looooooong time ago - pre '86.

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Sept 2017. Email will find me.

Can sympathise - I had a brand new one do that. This was in the good old days when they were 20quid. wtf will Venhill not make these?

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Sept 2017. Email will find me.

Paul Hobbs started Hobbsport, at Exeter Airport Industrial Estate IIRC...

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08 Specialized Langster

Mich, I'm sorry to keep butting in on this thread and your method of doing things but it seems to me like you want to find the hardest, most awkward way of doing things
The engine should be fully assembled before dismounting from the stand.....if the engine is slung via a strap fed through the rear rockerbox 'chimney' it will balance perfectly.
Once the engine is hanging from the hoist the swingarm block, swingarm and rear shock can be fitted. The entire assembly should then be lowered onto a paddock stand to support the swingarm and a scissor jack under the front of the sump.
The frame (with or without front wheel etc. already fitted) can now be lowered over this assembly and bolted up

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Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

Personally - I'm glad to see your interest has blossomed again.

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Sept 2017. Email will find me.

Lol Well, thanks for input Maz. But haven't you not realized yet that I'm a stubborn old git?

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Illegitimi non carborundum

I missed this one Adam!!

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Illegitimi non carborundum

Update time chaps! I had a nap when I came from work, so then I wasn't tired at my usual 10pm, which meant I had to go into the garage and wrench for 2.5 hours... quietly...

Managed to make a new clutch cable out of two old ones. Got myself some brass nipples from the local bike parts shop for a couple of pennies. Then brazed them onto the existing cable with silver solder and some stainless brazing flux. Works a treat and as solid as a rock! Only drawback is that losing 5mm of the end of the clutch cable by having to cut off the old nipple made it *ALMOST* impossible to adjust the cable. Its JUST enough... So, lesson learned. This can only be done once to a standard cable.









Rockers are now on! And yes, I should've done this before putting the engine in the frame, but I didn't want to scratch the polished and clear coated rocker covers. Small price to pay to keep them shiny =)



I don't have an air impact wrench, so this is the tool I fabricated the other day out of scrap steel to lock the sprocket in place, so that I can loosen/tighten the nut.

It consists of a steel plate (obviously!!) and two pins than slide into two cutouts in the steel plate. They are held in place loosely, but tight enough to lock the sprocket in place while working on the nut. Works a treat!







Old seal removed from output shaft...


...And the recently acquired UKBEG Lubricator about to me inserted...




Belt back on!


More to follow tomorrow!

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Illegitimi non carborundum

Long time no see

Busy little bunnies... great thread Love the new girder...

n like stainless lines idea..Iam going that way on my build..you can get sleaves to protect them I had a link some where but custom chrome sell them..different clear colour shrink fit..someone mention tube bendersss.....here a good link make your own http://www.thefont.info/contents.htm