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PostPosted: 09 May 2012 09:52 
I've got a mig welder and fairly proficient at using it, but still think getting in there to do it in situ with front wheel/forks in the way is the real problem. I may have to concentrate on getting the other monster finished/sold to create some space to work in. Trying to organise 2 bikes and 2 trikes in the garage is a pain in the arse.

Andy I'd still like to buy a billet bracket and new bolts, regardless of this job potentially going on hold for a while. Could you PM payment details over to me.


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PostPosted: 09 May 2012 10:01 
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How about getting a Dremel in to cut a slot the get the impact driver on it? Might be worth doing ith with the engine hot (the impact driver op).

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PostPosted: 09 May 2012 10:12 
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Don't forget the Stenzel ;)

http://www.stenzel-parts.de/14321.html

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PostPosted: 09 May 2012 16:08 
What's the idea of that Stenzel bracket, and how does it work?

Are they still available for tubers?


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PostPosted: 09 May 2012 16:13 
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Gee Tee wrote:
What's the idea of that Stenzel bracket, and how does it work?

Are they still available for tubers?


http://ukbeg.com/archive/modules.php?na ... ht=stenzel

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PostPosted: 09 May 2012 16:42 
Thanks for link

Pictures won't open at work but I'll have a look tonight


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PostPosted: 09 May 2012 16:48 
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Other link is here (that wont work in the archive)

http://www.ukbeg.com/archive/modules.ph ... 0115#50115

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PostPosted: 10 May 2012 18:01 
Thanks Pash

New motor mount and bolts on the way - Watch this space


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PostPosted: 12 May 2012 17:49 
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Gee Tee wrote:
Access doesn't look that good for drilling etc.. Looks like its snapped just below flush on head, but I can't be sure until I get the mount off.

For in situ extraction:
Leave the mount in place and use a drilling jig fitting the bolt's hole. I used a reverse drill.
Can attest to evil nature of cheap coneshaped extractors. Although on that occasion mine snapped only when I had the stud out enough to move on with pliers.


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PostPosted: 16 May 2012 15:56 
Has anyone used these with any success?

http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-engin ... fAodIkcFmQ


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PostPosted: 16 May 2012 16:26 
Used something similar a few years back called Easy-Out for removing M5, M6, bolts where the heads were screwed. Worked well, sometimes they snapped. Biggest problem is you need good access so you can drill nice and straight!!


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PostPosted: 16 May 2012 16:48 
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Left handed drills are well worth using if you are trying to drill a broken bolt as often if the bolt isn't tight in the thread if the drill trys to grab it removes the broken bolt anyway ;)

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PostPosted: 16 May 2012 16:53 
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Gee Tee wrote:
Has anyone used these with any success?

http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-engin ... fAodIkcFmQ


Never in a million years will they remove that broken bolt......only type of extractor I would use is the Snap-On splined jobbies.

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PostPosted: 16 May 2012 22:53 
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Sykes Pickavant also.
Kit # 01800000

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PostPosted: 24 May 2012 19:00 
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pash wrote:
Interestingly, Buell get their front mount bolts from here:

http://www.f911.com/

180,000 psi is equivalent to a 12.9 grade

More info on SAE grade equivalents here...


More useful bolt grade info here ;)

http://www.nutsandbolts.com/v1-bolt-grade-markings.html

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