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PostPosted: 15 Jul 2012 23:18 
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Current ride: 1991 RS1200 westwind
sportster_mann wrote:
Part numbers -

Y0526.7AA - left

Y0527.7AA - right

Surprisingly they're not as expensive as I remembered -

http://www.jerseyh-d.com/products/29129 ... -rear.aspx

http://www.jerseyh-d.com/products/29129 ... -rear.aspx


The 2009 LED rears are £49.21 +vat each

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PostPosted: 16 Jul 2012 09:20 
sportster_mann wrote:
In which case buy a cheap pair from ebay ...


I did that with the LED ones!!


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PostPosted: 16 Jul 2012 10:58 
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What is the best way to test an LED indicator? Can you just stick it across a 12v battery or will that blow it to bits straight away? :?

I had an issue with the X1 indicators where I changed a rear one that was working but hanging off (big foot syndrome) and then it didn't work at rear then other side didn't, then neither rear ones worked. All a bit confusing really, must get round to sorting it.

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PostPosted: 16 Jul 2012 11:31 
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deepsix wrote:

and then it didn't work at rear then other side didn't,


That's how they're supposed to work ;) lOl

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PostPosted: 16 Jul 2012 11:36 
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deepsix wrote:
What is the best way to test an LED indicator? Can you just stick it across a 12v battery or will that blow it to bits straight away? :?


Unlike a bulb, the LED has a polarity, so watch out for that. I found this out the hard way after building a O2 sniffer to fit on a Lambda sensor boss, and that had a LED readout. I copied the plans exactly, but it didn't work until the LED polarity was pointed out to me lOl

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PostPosted: 16 Jul 2012 11:51 
kevmean wrote:
sportster_mann wrote:
Part numbers -

Y0526.7AA - left

Y0527.7AA - right

Surprisingly they're not as expensive as I remembered -

http://www.jerseyh-d.com/products/29129 ... -rear.aspx

http://www.jerseyh-d.com/products/29129 ... -rear.aspx


The 2009 LED rears are £49.21 +vat each


F@*k me ! They've gone up nearly £20 since I checked yesterday ! They were just over £30 when I posted last night ... :twisted: :evil: :twisted: :evil: :twisted:


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PostPosted: 16 Jul 2012 11:55 
As I've said before, don't trust Jersey HD to give the cheapest price -

http://www.chester-harley-davidson.co.u ... 26.7AA.php

http://www.chester-harley-davidson.co.u ... 27.7AA.php

£20.57 each at this moment in time ...


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PostPosted: 16 Jul 2012 12:48 
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Current ride: 1991 RS1200 westwind
sportster_mann wrote:
As I've said before, don't trust Jersey HD to give the cheapest price -

http://www.chester-harley-davidson.co.u ... 26.7AA.php

http://www.chester-harley-davidson.co.u ... 27.7AA.php

£20.57 each at this moment in time ...


Very interesting ...I'd assumed it was Harleys list price that Jersey showed :?

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PostPosted: 08 Aug 2012 22:14 
OK, this is getting weird, I have replaced both indicators with some Oxford LED mini things, now both are weak and the front indicators are going ten to the dozen.
My next move may involve a hammer, me sticking a BMW badge on my tank and me never using my indicators again!

Someone give me a clue whats going on?!!!


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PostPosted: 08 Aug 2012 22:19 
Adam wrote:
deepsix wrote:
What is the best way to test an LED indicator? Can you just stick it across a 12v battery or will that blow it to bits straight away? :?


Unlike a bulb, the LED has a polarity, so watch out for that. I found this out the hard way after building a O2 sniffer to fit on a Lambda sensor boss, and that had a LED readout. I copied the plans exactly, but it didn't work until the LED polarity was pointed out to me lOl


could this simply be a "wires the wrong way round" thing then? I used the connectors that were fitted, maybe they're the wrong way for a Buell?! :?:


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PostPosted: 08 Aug 2012 22:23 
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the resistance value of the new ones
is different to the old ones , therefore the flasher/or dash electronics
speed is all to fuck

you need to find the wattage of the old ones , then match the new ones to them
resistors , or buy genuine ones

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PostPosted: 08 Aug 2012 22:37 
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Nutah wrote:
the resistance value of the new ones
is different to the old ones , therefore the flasher/or dash electronics
speed is all to fuck

you need to find the wattage of the old ones , then match the new ones to them
resistors , or buy genuine ones


:yt: Exactly what I was going to say.... :yup:

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PostPosted: 08 Aug 2012 22:39 
if this is the case Don, how come one worked and one didn't with the previous set of non-gen ones I fitted?!


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PostPosted: 09 Aug 2012 05:31 
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Is it not the instrument cluster that powers the indicators on the 1125? Is it just a simple timer circuit or is it dependant on current draw?

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PostPosted: 09 Aug 2012 09:38 
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jonnyboyrebel wrote:
if this is the case Don, how come one worked and one didn't with the previous set of non-gen ones I fitted?!


not sure TBH John , the pair must have individually had a different resistance at a guess
or was one cross connected , as diodes are polarity concious

as Nick says , if they are controlled by electronics in the dash , standard may be best
what have other 1125 owners fitted :?:

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