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PostPosted: 19 Aug 2012 22:22 
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proff. patpending
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Current ride: Victoria Sponge
Location: Bristol - Gateway to all things good
Tuber
Assumes rubber rocker box cover gaskets are re-used
1 x 16800-84A - GASKET, ROCKER BOX
1 x 25263-90D - GASKET, GEARCASE COVER
1 x 11124 - OIL SEAL
2 x 65324-83B - GASKET,EXH PORT

Basic task list as follows - Check Adam's post and manual for information at required level
    1. Remove exhaust
    2. Remove plugs
    3. Remove front and rear rocker box covers
    4. Turn engine to TDC compression on front cylinder (note that both valves are closed)
    5. Remove front rocker box
    6. Turn engine to TDC compression on rear cylinder (note that both valves are closed)
    7. Remove ignition pick up cover
    8. Remove ignition cover
    9. Remove gear case cover
    10. Remove pinion gear nut (you need to lock the crank with something)
    11. Remove pinion gear
    12. Remove oil pump gear
    13. Replace oil pump gear
    14. Check cam markings line up
    15. Replace seal in cam cover
    16. Replace exhaust gaskets
    17. Reverse process


XB
Assumes rubber rocker box cover gaskets are re-used
1 x 16800-84A - GASKET, ROCKER BOX
1 x 25353-00YB - GASKET, GEARCASE COVER
1 x 11124 - OIL SEAL
2 x 65324-83B - GASKET,EXH PORT

Basic task list as follows - Check Adam's post and manual for information at required level
    1. Rotate engine
    2. Remove exhaust
    3. Remove plugs
    4. Remove front and rear rocker box covers
    5. Turn engine to TDC compression on front cylinder (note that both valves are closed)
    6. Remove front rocker box
    7. Turn engine to TDC compression on rear cylinder (note that both valves are closed)
    8. Remove ignition pick up cover
    9. Remove ignition cover
    10. Remove gear case cover
    11. Remove pinion gear nut (you need to lock the crank with something)
    12. Remove pinion gear
    13. Remove oil pump gear
    14. Replace oil pump gear
    15. Check cam markings line up
    16. Replace seal in cam cover
    17. Replace exhaust gaskets
    18. Reverse process

I am sure :maz: will chip in if I have forgotten something ;)

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PostPosted: 19 Aug 2012 22:35 
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Quote:
18. Reverse process


This is the bit everyone gets wrong........when refitting the rocker assy. the lifters MUST be on the back of the cams, once torqued down, DO NOT rotate the engine to do the other cylinder for at least 1/2 hour.......go brew up/have a smoke/whatever and watch the exhaust valve settle down onto its seat as the lifters bleed down......now you can turn the engine to do the other pot :idea:

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PostPosted: 19 Aug 2012 22:52 
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Current ride: XB12s Long
Location: West Lothian Scotland
Why do the rocker boxes have to come off to change the oil pump drive gear?


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PostPosted: 19 Aug 2012 23:00 
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......I rest my case :headbang:

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PostPosted: 19 Aug 2012 23:08 
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Location: worthing west sussex
Good to see what's involved; looks like a garage job to me :oooops:


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PostPosted: 20 Aug 2012 01:09 
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Current ride: XB12s Long
Location: West Lothian Scotland
Maz wrote:
......I rest my case :headbang:

I thought it was a reasonable question?
Just did the rocker box and cover gaskets.
Turned up a disc with grease nipple mod.
Did the air box venting mod on my XB12Ss 2007 6,000 miles
Took the oil pump out and took photos and zoomed in on a pc, it looked like new so just left it.
Did the TPS reset and checked for fault codes.
The bike runs much better now no coughing when cold, ticks over great.


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PostPosted: 20 Aug 2012 05:57 
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proff. patpending
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Steven wrote:
Why do the rocker boxes have to come off to change the oil pump drive gear?


Read Maz's post above and on the other thread. You need to unload the pushrods. Only one rocker box needs to come off, the other can stay on with the engine turned to TDC compression. If you have had the rocker boxes off already and have assembled it correctly with mechanical sympathy you will know what I mean.

Trying to remove the cam cover with the pushrods loaded will at best be not possible, at worst will ovalise the inner cam bearings.

Screwing the rocker boxes down, even with the pushrods on the cam base circle needs to be done with mechanical sympathy, i.e. each bolt done a turn before moving onto the next until the rocker box is tight... Then, as Maz says, go smoke a roley...

Steven wrote:
Did the air box venting mod on my XB12Ss 2007 6,000 miles
Took the oil pump out and took photos and zoomed in on a pc, it looked like new so just left it.


You have the later oil pump gear and a low mileage. It is the pre-06 bikes that wear their gears. Saying that, I couldn't get a real feel for how worn my gear was (05 engine) so I pulled the cover and sure enough there was wear. How much it needs to wear before one tooth breaks off (and falls in the oil pump, locking it and stripping the rest of the teeth off) is not something I wish to find out on my engine.

birdy wrote:
Good to see what's involved; looks like a garage job to me :oooops:


You should think yourself more akin to Kenny Roberts. He had someone to do this stuff for him...

The job itself is not difficult, but if you don't heed the advice of Maz and Adam (not letting the tappets bleed down before turning the motor), you can end up causing problems for yourself. There are other pitfalls too:
1. How are you going to lock the crank? A few different methods, tools are available.
2. How are you going to 'hook' the seal out without scratching the bore? A screw driver will not do.
3. How are you going to press the new seal in? Tap it in with a hammer? Two sockets with some studding?
4. What are you going to do if your exhaust studs break off? This always happens when you don't want it to. Clean the exposed threads and soak with penetrating oil before you try and undo the nut.

I did my Firebolt over about a month, but that was cos I was on holiday for two weeks and had other commitments I needed to attend to. I can't tell you exactly how long it too me (I have fitted the gear to two of my other Buells), but if you have not done it before, budget a good day to do it and think through the process as you read how to do it (use Adam's cam cut-down guide, Maz's snippets and the service manual) and as you do it - as one of my childhood heroes (now sadly passed away) used to tell me, measure twice, cut once.

If you have any doubts, take it to someone that knows what they are doing. Whilst you decide who that is, check the Adam post in the other thread with the aftermath of dealer work...

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PostPosted: 20 Aug 2012 08:46 
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Thanks Pash, you're a gent :-)


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PostPosted: 20 Aug 2012 09:20 
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proff. patpending
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I should have said that the pre-07 gears wear at a faster rate than the 06/07 gears, i.e. the newer ones still wear. The Lucky Hands gear has been shown to be more durable (evidence from LH, Gunter and xborg).

I don't think there is anything new that I wrote up there, just that my frustration tolerance is higher than :maz:

:run:

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PostPosted: 20 Aug 2012 14:03 
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Current ride: XB12s Long
Location: West Lothian Scotland
Thanks,
I realise Maz must get all sorts of daft questions and if I do get into something I'm not overly confident with, he will be my first port of call :-)


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PostPosted: 22 Aug 2012 14:13 
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Location: my shed, Hampshire
i have 3 engines here that all crapped themselves with worn or broken oil pump gears. be warned! it gets ugly!!

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PostPosted: 22 Aug 2012 14:18 
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Current ride: Buell S1, Buell S3T
Location: Alford - Aberdeenshire
Is that 3 engines buggered because the oil pump failed or because of issues replacing the pump gear itself ?

Cheers

neil

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PostPosted: 24 Aug 2012 13:29 
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Maz wrote:
Quote:
18. Reverse process


This is the bit everyone gets wrong........when refitting the rocker assy. the lifters MUST be on the back of the cams, once torqued down, DO NOT rotate the engine to do the other cylinder for at least 1/2 hour.......go brew up/have a smoke/whatever and watch the exhaust valve settle down onto its seat as the lifters bleed down......now you can turn the engine to do the other pot :idea:



Given that my XB will have covered at least 35k by the time I did this job, would you say it was worth replacing the crankcase reed valve at the back of the cam box Maz?

Also, what is your estimated total time for changing the gear? ;)


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PostPosted: 24 Aug 2012 14:21 
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proff. patpending
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Think you will need to split the cases for that...

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PostPosted: 24 Aug 2012 14:49 
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......no you dont ;)

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