A very busy two hours...
Got into the airbox. Note that I do not have a breather mod cos I don't think I need one (
):
Note the oil 'airside' of the filter. That suggests the sealing of the filter is not that great, oil possibly being blown past the filter as a result of blowing back through the inlet...
Throttle plate was not that dirty, but I gave it a clean up with some carb cleaner:
Bit of evidence of chaffing on the temp sensor wire, caused by the breather.
Checked for further chaffing, e.g. where the ECM wires rub on the seat and where the harness touches other bits of harness, pipe or other bits of bike. Examples shown. Nothing of note:
And interestingly, I found the seat had been pressing down on my auxiliary feed to my Simpson Detour lights:
I re-routed that one...
My Bluetooth dongle 5000 miles on (still works):
I used some Putoline cable guard on the throttle cables which made the return from WOT a bit zippier.
Lots of crud in places. A toothbrush with WD40 did the trick.
Out with the plugs, and how I held my breath after seeing Lars1976s thread come out with his plugs...
But no problems, and I know why, but you will see later.
Lots more crud, this time in the plug recess:
But James 'sawmill copycat' Dyson comes to the rescue:
Off with the scoop. Here is my preferred tool for the job:
And again, the front plug is a mess...
New (don't look
) and old plugs, plus ignition leads. IAT sensor just hanging tough with its mates:
The gaps had increased from 36 thou (set 5000 miles ago) to 41 thou...
No chaffing on the front plug lead; common either on idle adjuster or more commonly on Uly, against the harness...
And here is why they came out OK (I bet I get slated for this picture - but never had a problem in 30 years of spark plug changing):
Next to check the timing, so out with the plug:
Now, a lot of people think you need ECMSpy to check your timing, but you don't, you can do it with the ignition on, plugs out, to make it easier, and bike in 5th. When the crank mark is in the middle of the window, this is the point where the fuel pump primes. If you are miles out, it means you are 360 deg crank angle wrong and are looking at TDC front exhaust rather than compression.
Anyway, I was a few degrees over advanced. I had read about Uly engines being poorly timed at the factory and this is the first time I have checked the timing... Off with the badge and then the plate. I used an impact driver cos the screws are easy to chew up if you are not putting much pressure on them when you loosen them:
A quick adjustment, keeping ignition on, the crank mark in the centre of the window and moving the pickup plate until I get to the pump switching point. Then a quick check with the rear wheel, backing off then moving in the forward direction of the bike.
And now all that's left....
14. Clean and lubricate gear lever and rear brake pivots
Plus refit flyscreen, Remus and chin spoiler...
Has taken a good 24 hours to date...
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- common sense would dictate that there would be a standard test 
for loadsa reasons you already know about from the above but most of all because you aint routed the breathers to atmosphere yet......why do you reckon you dont need to ?? 
