Give your Vin to a dealer and they 'should' be able to tell you. (Oi, stop laughing at the back

) It's a bung hammered up the mainshaft to force to oil out of oilways in the mainshaft, giving a better feed to the pinions.
If (when

) your clutch slave cylinder starts leaking, even Buells own demo fleet show signs of this

, let me know and I'll tell you what parts you need for a Warranty fix. You may get fobbed off with new replacement parts, you need the latest upgrade which I'm told, is the solution. Does your front brake line go between the mudguard and the fork leg, or around the outside of the fork. There's a safety recall on these. Of course your Dealer will have made you aware of this at handover
Lube the pivot for the rear brake pedal, they sometimes bind.
If your able to, check there's no parasitic draw from your instruments as this can flatten your battery, my instruments were replaced with '09 instruments under Warranty. My wheel bearings were shagged at 4k miles (Buell now have a 3 bearing rear wheel for 2010) so if yours has done more miles than this you need to check them - the wheels need to be removed to do this, despite what the naysayers will tell you; no doubt they're writing to Buell as we speak telling them the '10 wheel upgrade is an over reaction
Make sure you've had the latest flash on the ECU, it makes the bottom end creamy smooth and the motor runs cooler as well - a good dealer will give you a printed sheet telling you which flash you've had. I can give you the part number for this next time I go over to my playpen.
Look under the air box if you can smell fuel. They often leak from a union there. Later years use metal unions as opposed to the earlier plastic ones.
If you get a stutter when you nail it in 3rd, it's the Active Air Solenoid shutting the throttles on you. It's fitted to keep the Hippies happy

but it's easy to disconnect.
I'll have Remus pipe , for not much money, up for sale soon
Now enjoy; it's a stonkin' motor
