Hello,

I've just purchased a Magura Hydraulic clutch kit for my 05 XB12R. I fitted it yesterday, but I found that the hose was far too long, and the clutch adjustment was difficult. It seems to release the clutch, but only just (the clutch biting point is close to the handlebar) and the bike seems to want to move slowly forward with the clutch in. I adjusted the screw on the clutch ramp until there was absolutely no freeplay, and I've put the adjuster at the lever on it's furthest out position but I've had no luck.

The manual on the Magura site seems to start to tell you how to shorten the hose, but it cuts off part way through the instructions, and with the difficult adjustment, I'm concerned that I've been sent the wrong kit or something.

Anyone got any ideas?

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'05 XB12R Firebolt
'08 Triumph Street Triple R
1990 Kawasaki KR1S

I see what you mean on the instructions. And it seems all languages have the same missing piece?

I think it is a good reason to contact Magura - at least let them know their documentation is incomplete, and that you are having issues in that exact area.

I did contact them, and they have responded to say that I can shorten the line if required.

I'm more concerned about the adjustment to be honest, any ideas?

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'05 XB12R Firebolt
'08 Triumph Street Triple R
1990 Kawasaki KR1S

Needs bleeding?

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08 Specialized Langster

......or a bigger M/cyl......or just binning and refit the cable

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Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

I have had an idea that might work, I wonder if I pinched the O ring on the bolt that goes into the clutch housing so the slave cylinder isn't tightened as much as it should be. Let's hope its that otherwise I just spent a load of money on a useless Magura clutch kit.

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'05 XB12R Firebolt
'08 Triumph Street Triple R
1990 Kawasaki KR1S

Be careful not to tighten that nut up too much that goes into the clutch housing... the alloy there is made of a particularly soft camembert cheese.

I've had the Magura kit for a couple of years now. On the odd time I've had to go back to a cable I've hated it, so I think it's worth persevering.

As long as you've adjusted the clutch end freeplay correctly, then the symptoms you're describing are most likely from air in the system. The only way I've successfully bled the system is via a syringe and hose pumping fluid up from the slave cylinder bleed nipple.

The plot thickens...

I had a reply from a very nice man working at Magura in Germany by the name of Conor (irish ex-pat maybe?). He told me that it was possible to shorten the line, so I wanted to double check how, and if it was possible as he mentioned there were some types that could be shortened, and some that could not. I ended up sending him a photo of the kit...

He replied and said that the kit I bought wasn't assembled by Magura but was assembled by a Magura partner from Magura components. he explained how to bleed the system (Basically remove the slave cylinder, pump the lever until the slave is at it's maximum travel, then angle it so any air will flow up the hose to the m/cyl). He also told me that at maximum slave cylinder travel the lever shouldn't move more than 1cm at the end of its travel. If it moves more than that then it needs bleeding.

The implication was that because the system wasn't assembled at the factory, it might well have air in it.

it can be shortened, but it needs a seal which he's going to post to me free of charge! Can't fault Magura customer service, I bought an unsupported product made of parts from the US and he's sending me a seal kit for free! I'd call that a win.

Good work Magura! Let's hope the system does need bleeding and I can get the clutch to adjust properly now.

_________________
'05 XB12R Firebolt
'08 Triumph Street Triple R
1990 Kawasaki KR1S

good customer service

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Feros Ferio

What sort of price is it for the kit I broke both my wrists several years ago and could definitly benifit from a lighter cutch lever

http://www.magura.com/en/powersports/ne ... eries.html

From the day they made this for the buells ,there are problems with it!

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The sound of a V-twin engine braking is music to my ears!!

Are hydraulic clutches significantly lighter when compared to a lubed and properly routed cable system? To compress the clutch spring and lift the plates will take the same amount of pressure at the handlebar however it's delivered to the lever on the ramp mechanism.
To my thinking, the only way the h/b lever will be lighter, is if the lift of the plates is less - and then you get clutch drag and it's associated problems.

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If your dreams don't scare you, they are not big enough.

_________________
Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

To compress the clutch spring and lift the plates will take the same amount of pressure at the lever on the ramp mechanism.

To my thinking, the only way the hydraulic lever will be lighter is if the cylinder bore ratio's help to reduce input ??
heres a chart on brakes but idea should be the same for clutch
http://www.vintagebrake.com/mastercylinder.htm

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Buell Ulysses XB12X 06/08

.....and there's the problem......increase surface area of the slave to reduce effort at lever and you also reduce the travel = clutch drag.

_________________
Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR