I'm in the process of changing my fuel pump I will edit this post as I go along. On the XB9R you do have to drop the swinging arm as simply just removing the shock bottom bolt does not give you enough room.
Location.

http://www.buelligan.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/IMG_3657.jpg

http://www.buelligan.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/IMG_3658.jpg

Front Wheel in a chock, back end on axle stands with rear brake lever removed.

http://www.buelligan.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/Front-wheel-chock.jpg

http://www.buelligan.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/Axle-stands-1.jpg

http://www.buelligan.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/Axle-stands-2.jpg

Location of swinging arm spindle.

http://www.buelligan.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/IMG_3660.jpg

Rear end view, dirty girl, needs a wipe

http://www.buelligan.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/Rear-view.jpg

Still smiling tho'

http://www.buelligan.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/still-smiling.jpg

Even though I've snapped 3 allen sockets on the swing arm spindle securing bolt

http://www.buelligan.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/Swinging-arm-spindle-2.jpg

More to follow....

watching with interest...

daft question mebbe, but what size allen is the actual swingarm pivot?

Same as the axles

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08 Specialized Langster

Remove the rear brake line where it connects to the swinging arm, my bolt snapped Withdraw swinging arm spindle and then the bottom shock bolt that you should have loosened beforehand, makes it easier to handle.

http://www.buelligan.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/drop-swing-arm.jpg

Take air box off and base, you can get your hand in and disco - disconnect the fuel line from the off side. Crap pic.

http://www.buelligan.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/unhook-fuel-line.jpg

Turn ignition on and off to drain the frame or leave ignition on and flick the cut out switch off n on. This was the 1st time my old pump has sounded like a pump should presumably cos there's no pressure.
I had two cans full which only took about 10 mins to fill.

http://www.buelligan.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/use-pump-to-drain-frame.jpg

Unhook the fuel pipe and power lead from the pump unit and remove the drain plug, there's about half a cup full comes out.
I screwed in a longer coach bolt I had kicking about with a nice chunky washer type job, got me grips on there and used it as a mini slide hammer which worked a treat then waggled it out no bother.

http://www.buelligan.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/mini-slide-hammer.jpg

And withdraw the pump.

http://www.buelligan.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/extract-fuel-pump.jpg

Old & new pump look different.

http://www.buelligan.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/old-n-new.jpg

Slap a little grease round the O ring seals and slide in the new fuel pump unit tightening the allen bolts in the usual fashion. and connect the fuel line and power, turn ignition on & off a few times to prime the new pump and WOW it sounds like a proper fuel pump now - check for leaks. Slap the rest back together.

I came across a few allen bolts that were a bugger to get moving and snapped one.
If your not a toker and avid coffee drinker the whole job could be done in a couple of hours easily, it goes back together a lot faster than taking apart
Very basic tools needed.
An old bolt, washer and mole grips.
The usual Yankee torx keys (only two sizes)
Yankee or old Brit allen keys. A 1/2 inch spanner.
MOTORCYCLE SPINDLE TOOL HEX SIZES 19MM 22MM 24MM
Like this un. You should have one for removing your wheels
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOTORCYCLE-SPINDLE-TOOL-HEX-SIZES-19MM-22MM-24MM-HONDA-YAMAHA-KAWASAKI-/390801284853

Anyone wanna buy an old fuel pump?

Good job, wanna have a go at my 12s now?

I see you used an old coach bolt to help draw the pump, do you know what the actual thread is on the drain(?) plug - I've a mind to knock up a puller before I start.

Aint got a clue what thread. The drain plug is for draining only, there's a screw hole right in the middle of the unit that has the same thread as the 4 allen bolts holding the unit in, that's where I screwed my coach bolt in.

Hi, I read your other post in the tech section about the spluttering you got when giving it some, mines had exactly the same issue over 3500rpm... viewtopic.php?f=8&t=20651

I just fitted a new pump (cost about £60 from Fuel Performance with lifetime warranty) and also a Drummer exhaust.

Have you found/solved the issue yet? By the way, i found a good thread on another forum, perhaps badweatherbikers, and managed to remove the pump just by dropping the swingarm. (All that required was suspending the frame, removing the fan and rear shock, removing belt tensioner, loosening rear axle, dropping swingarm.)

The second time I did it I didn't have access to my friends garage rafters to suspend the bike so just lay it down carefully on an old mattress. This was actually the easiest way - no damage, less worrying about the bike swaying and actually better positioned for myself to work on the fuel pump.

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Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.

Hello F Bueller, yep it cured the spluttering and the bike is way more responsive. lovely n crisp
I didn't remove the fan, rear shock or belt tensioner? Just the bottom shock bolt and dropping the swingarm by removing the spindle.

I was getting confused - I only removed the fan and shock to replace the headers, not the fuel pump. I still needed to remove the tensioner though, but maybe my belt is newer and tighter than yours.

So your new fuel pump fixed the spluttering issue, and my new fuel pump caused it?

I'm beginning to think the one I bought was shit then.

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Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.