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 Post subject: Rear exhaust studs....
PostPosted: 14 Nov 2015 16:47 
So nice to find I have one very rusty, and one already snapped flush with the flange, question is, do I now have the joys of removing the engine to get this slight problem sorted..? :?


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PostPosted: 14 Nov 2015 17:01 
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Give the one that is still with the nut a good clout with a punch. Any corrosion inside the thread will be behind it , so the clout should smack it back to crush that corrosion. Then get your socket on it and put some load on to untighten, then to tighten; you need lots of mechanical sympathy here, and patience, you are trying to free the stud off inside the head. If all goes well, it should come out, eventually...

As for the broken one, once the first one is out, give that one a clout and see if you can get one of those stud extractors on it that tightens down on the shaft. If it breaks, try drilling with one of them jigs. And if all this fails, get the head off, and either weld a nut to the stub or put the head in the mill and drill it out...

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PostPosted: 14 Nov 2015 17:05 
Cheers Nick.. will have a go, and see how it goes, Looking forward to this one.... :?


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PostPosted: 14 Nov 2015 17:12 
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Copa slip everything when it goes back together.

Also, not sure what model you have but Uly exhaust clamps are than bit fatter, leaving little or no thread exposed to rust in front of the nut...

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PostPosted: 14 Nov 2015 17:16 
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Or pay someone else to do it whose done before if you don't feel confident.
Try Maz or Northants V twin or tubbs whichever you are closest to. A new head is eye watering in price :shock:


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PostPosted: 14 Nov 2015 18:10 
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If I recall correctly :maz: has got an expensive bit of kit ( an induction heater ( probably snap on ) ) to help get these out

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PostPosted: 14 Nov 2015 18:45 
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barney wrote:
If I recall correctly :maz: has got an expensive bit of kit ( an induction heater ( probably snap on ) ) to help get these out


Yeah he has :yup:

Like Pash says, you'll need a sympathetic wrist on the unbroken stud. As for the broken stud, unless you can drill accurately or have access to a drill jig, get the bike, or head to Maz, he knows where it can be spark eroded out. If the drill wanders, you can easily knacker the head.

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PostPosted: 14 Nov 2015 19:36 
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Can use jig

http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/140910484607

I drilled mine out on the milling machine... I've got the corodinates from the centre of the port, easy with a DRO.

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PostPosted: 14 Nov 2015 22:33 
Thanks guys.. will have a look and see what I think, pillar drill, milling machine is within my grasp, so really just a case of biting the bullet and having a look at how bad its going to be, luckily the weather is crap, so time is on my side.
So I'll be in the workshop listening to radio 4 for a while, sniffing the plusgas fumes... :yup:


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PostPosted: 15 Nov 2015 15:14 
Off to buy a lotto ticket... the front 2 nuts came off no trouble, and after being soaked in plus gas all night, and with using the back and forth motion the rusty nut came off no problem, then once I had the all the other stuff out the way, the header was off, and as I shone the light at the rear studs, the broken one, is actually fully intact just missing the nut! a clean up and the both sets of studs look very good.
So some new gaskets, nuts, some degreaser, and a few hours putting all back together and that Tubbs exhaust sound sound a lot better...

Image

Looking a little sorry, but will soon be back. :sun:


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PostPosted: 15 Nov 2015 15:27 
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Nice work

Lots of Copaslip on assembly...

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PostPosted: 15 Nov 2015 22:20 
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:yup: Are you fitting new studs?

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PostPosted: 16 Nov 2015 18:45 
Oh I think so, was looking at stainless steel with long brass nuts and some locking wire.. :yup:


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PostPosted: 16 Nov 2015 18:51 
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:o

I wouldn't be tempting fate and I would be using k-nuts

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PostPosted: 16 Nov 2015 19:30 
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If they are still good let them be!

Big chance you break them when trying to remove!

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