http://speed-of-color.de/index.php?cat= ... t=XBAT-006

This little clutch cable lever, as far as I can tell, is simply longer which will make it easier to pull. And this is what it claims, so all is good. But, with a longer lever, you will need to pull it further at the lever (in your hand) to achieve the same degree of rotation at the clutch. Am I right? So is this what has to happen once this is installed; you need to pull the clutch lever hard against your bars, or is there something else to it that I'm missing?

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Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.

maybe also has a different angle ramp that the balls run in
i think muller ? did a similar "power clutch" ....

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=mulle ... A1gQsAQIIg

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Feros Ferio

I see, so its not just down to the rotation, its about the movement of the bearings behind.

Gotcha

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Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.

I believe some of the cheaper makes of easy pull clutches rely on just a longer arm which has you say means you have to be careful with adjustment because lever needs to be pulled further in towards the handlebars but also they sometimes put the inner cable in a position where it may rub against the outer at the primary cover end, the better versions also use a different ball ramp angle to reduce effort without the downsides. Best option is to get stronger hands

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2001 X1 2009 1125CR 2006 Uly X3 2010 Uly a fully Maz'd S1 and a 1991 RS1200 Westwind.

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Buell Ulysses XB12X 06/08

OR kill 2 birds with one stone......................

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/X-Factor-12-V ... SwQoFWQIv2

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aka DrBagiva, DrBusqvarna, Uncle Knobhead

I've been working on stronger hands since I was 12, although that's just my right hand, dang.

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Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.

Can you get your balls in aswell ?

Used to rebuild/modify a bike or three in the past and one thing, amongst many, I noticed is that manufacturers did not make clutch perches with the same distance between the lever pivot and the cable nipple....

Something, maybe, you had not considered.....

Did notice the longer pivot/pull type often came with dog leg levers so you can still reach them...

Radial placement of the nipple to pivot makes a difference to as some pull over centre, think 1 O,clock placement, and are harder on the initial pull than one that's on, or left of, centre...

Fitting an longer "easy pull" arm can be offset somewhat by fitting a lever with a bigger pivot/nipple distance...

The clutch cable on the Uly pulled in an arc that caused it to wear a groove in the perch... Not the best idea...

"Nothing is ever as simple as it appears..."

...and the simple law of levers is that you get nothing for nothing... ie the trade off for reduced effort will mean increased travel... the travel of the clutch lever is limited by the length of your fingers to grab it in the first place, even if it's cranked it'll still hit the handlebar!

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'98 M2 Razorback, it's a keeper.

No adult sized ones?

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I hate being strapped for cash....but it pays the bills

Spot on Rik. You get don't get owt for nowt with Physics

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If your dreams don't scare you, they are not big enough.

The balls in the Muller are seated in a smaller diameter about the shaft centerline than OEM and as it rotates, that diameter gets smaller (decreasing radius turn ). The ramp angle and distance the balls travel in their groove is about the same as OEM but since it decreases in diameter as it rotates, it effectively increases leverage by getting closer to the shaft centerline and requires less angular travel.

The decreasing radius is nice because it allows better modulation of the clutch in the early part of the squeeze. It's kind of like "let off" on a bow with cams.

I can't remember, but I think the cable hook on the Muller is further from the centerline as well. But, IMO, that just requires increased lever travel to get the same angular rotation of the Muller. But since the ball grooves are closer to the centerline than OEM, that gets negated. So I don't know why they did that.

I think the Muller is a pretty good product. I put one in my buddy's XR1200R last year and he was ecstatic.

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Bob Krzeszkiewicz
2012 XR1200X - 2011 Kawasaki Z1000SX - 1999 Buell X1

Correct me if I'm wrong (which I undoubtedly will be) but isn't the Muller device in fact an actuator?

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I hate being strapped for cash....but it pays the bills

Both wrong, it's a yoghurt...

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08 Specialized Langster