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FerrisBueller
PostPosted: 05 Mar 2018 22:21 
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Current ride: 1125CR & HD Hardtail
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There we go then, thanks! Must be very thin, no wonder its fraught with problems. So I suppose if it looks like the copper wire is touching the main steel body, it probably isn't, because of the enamel.

Maz wrote:
...to be honest the standard reg/rec aint that bad, it's the location that's a problem......they all get red hot and need to be out in the breeze.

On another note, Maz previously said the above, but if I do want to change to a Mosfet, which do I get, or are they all basically the same? There's some one ebay for example, for under £100...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mosfet-Volta ... SwbtNaAbmr

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Nutah
PostPosted: 06 Mar 2018 17:45 
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nigelbread wrote:
The copper wire is coated in shellac, the burning out appears
to be due to overheating due to inadequate oil, hence extra oil spray hole.
oil cooling winding, basically i feel the stator is on occasions running max charge, I am unsure if it has a control module, I have no doubt we will find out!
early Norton ones were encapsulated due to vibration failure!
that does not look very tidy but functional, i have been involved in water pumps that require rewinds for many years

wire thickness and number of turns govern output followed by correct sequence, This would be done by hand big motor stators done on machine
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5LHrD6OFS4

very neat!

:yt:

..takes me back to my apprenticeship :yup:

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FerrisBueller
PostPosted: 08 Mar 2018 22:12 
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Received my rotor back from Demeanour Customs, nice little oil jet...

Image

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pash
PostPosted: 09 Mar 2018 17:14 
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That's pretty. Thanks for the pic, I had never actually seen this (very expensive) hole before...

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FerrisBueller
PostPosted: 09 Mar 2018 19:01 
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It looks like even worse value for money when you see it from the other side.

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nigelbread
PostPosted: 09 Mar 2018 19:51 
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FerrisBueller wrote:
It looks like even worse value for money when you see it from the other side.

how much?
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Kiwi
PostPosted: 09 Mar 2018 20:10 
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FerrisBueller wrote:
Received my rotor back from Demeanour Customs, nice little oil jet...

Image



Nice one
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Kiwi
PostPosted: 09 Mar 2018 20:12 
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nigelbread wrote:
FerrisBueller wrote:
It looks like even worse value for money when you see it from the other side.

how much?



£100 I think
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pash
PostPosted: 09 Mar 2018 21:12 
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FerrisBueller wrote:
It looks like even worse value for money when you see it from the other side.

But money well spent so I understand...

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FerrisBueller
PostPosted: 09 Mar 2018 23:54 
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Kiwi wrote:
nigelbread wrote:
FerrisBueller wrote:
It looks like even worse value for money when you see it from the other side.

how much?

£100 I think


£138 (It was £100, but then VAT and P&P)

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FerrisBueller
PostPosted: 10 Mar 2018 00:03 
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Its all back together now. The hardest thing turned out to be threading the stator wires back up to under the seat. Thank god I left a red wire there when I yanked it out, but it was still pretty tough...

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FerrisBueller
PostPosted: 14 Mar 2018 12:32 
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By the way, my battery is now getting a pretty healthy and steady 14.21V.

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pash
PostPosted: 14 Mar 2018 12:33 
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Great news

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Ohsteveo
PostPosted: 28 Jun 2018 22:18 
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FerrisBueller wrote:
By the way, my battery is now getting a pretty healthy and steady 14.21V.

Ferris, is this still the case?.....my 1125CR ( new rectifier, stator rewind and oil way drilled rotor) had a low voltage reading according to the dash last week, and I cut short a ride in case of failure. It was a hot day and I was moving slowly through traffic, then stopped and parked for an hour. On restart it was just about 12v when normally it's up in the 14v range.
On the journey home it improved once moving and after checking the wiring connections and the outputs once home,all seems good again.
My thoughts were that the heat from the slow moving traffic and the heat soak whilst parked caused the drop.
One thing I did notice was that the mosfet regulator gets super warm...too hot to touch without wincing. It's been fitted with heat transfer pads at the mounting point to aid heat transfer to the frame but still felt flipping hot.
This maybe also suffered in the heat of the traffic.
Anyway....just wondered if your problems are totally rectified.....see what I did there... :D

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FerrisBueller
PostPosted: 28 Jun 2018 22:38 
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Ohsteveo wrote:
FerrisBueller wrote:
By the way, my battery is now getting a pretty healthy and steady 14.21V.

Ferris, is this still the case?.....my 1125CR ( new rectifier, stator rewind and oil way drilled rotor) had a low voltage reading according to the dash last week, and I cut short a ride in case of failure. It was a hot day and I was moving slowly through traffic, then stopped and parked for an hour. On restart it was just about 12v when normally it's up in the 14v range.
On the journey home it improved once moving and after checking the wiring connections and the outputs once home,all seems good again.
My thoughts were that the heat from the slow moving traffic and the heat soak whilst parked caused the drop.
One thing I did notice was that the mosfet regulator gets super warm...too hot to touch without wincing. It's been fitted with heat transfer pads at the mounting point to aid heat transfer to the frame but still felt flipping hot.
This maybe also suffered in the heat of the traffic.
Anyway....just wondered if your problems are totally rectified.....see what I did there... :D


Well I used it with no problems for about a month, but now it's just been sat in my garage, missing out on all the hot heat and traffic. (I moved house and prefer my Harley for the longer motorway commute, so it's up for sale)

I thought the mosfet rectifiers were supposed to run cooler too? Mine's the standard shunt type still. I'll test it again at the weekend out of curiosity.

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