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 Post subject: Re: 1125r tyre pressures
PostPosted: 14 Oct 2009 07:28 
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Joined: 06 May 2009 17:47
Posts: 132
yes, I also still change down as if it were a standard gearbox, hopefully this will extend the service life considerably.


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 Post subject: Re: 1125r tyre pressures
PostPosted: 14 Oct 2009 13:02 
pash wrote:
.........however I find on slow speed (up to 30mph) roundabouts.....


Never been on one of them, where is it?


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 Post subject: Re: 1125r tyre pressures
PostPosted: 14 Oct 2009 17:12 
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Joined: 15 Apr 2009 17:25
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Location: Oswestry
You'll have to ask Dougal and Florence first :D

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 Post subject: Re: 1125r tyre pressures
PostPosted: 14 Oct 2009 17:25 
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greasemonkey wrote:
Dirty John wrote:
vac operated slipper clutch


you're suspiciously quiet on this subject Adam,,, ;)



That's because it's 5.40 AM and I'll still be asleep for another hour :lol:

I've never used the slipper clutch on my 1125, I always try and be kind to my gearbox. 'Suppose I miss out on the magazine journo/bar room talk there :D Never found I needed it really and I've never had much of a problem keeping up with the traffic ;) :lol: I just wish Rotax had designed the release mechanism so that it didn't leak hydraulic fluid as soon as you look at it :roll:

As for tyre pressures, I experiment with different pressures so that there's about 2lb difference between hot and cold in the front and 4lb difference in the rear. A tip given to me by someone in the know and it's always worked for me on the road and on the track - not saying it'll suit everyone though. Seems sensible because in winter, with cold roads, full kit, full fuel tank, a bit of luggage etc, etc, your bike will be considerably heavier than in summer with half a tank and one piece leathers. Surely that would need a different tyre pressure to work best :?: :?

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 Post subject: Re: 1125r tyre pressures
PostPosted: 14 Oct 2009 17:31 
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greasemonkey wrote:
,,,and heres me thinking it was some karmic footware handling technique,,,


You need some Crocs ;) :yup:

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 Post subject: Re: 1125r tyre pressures
PostPosted: 14 Oct 2009 17:37 
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greasemonkey wrote:
:rofl: ,,,actually, I've some Regatta all-terrain sand-wellys that have served admirably for the last few years,,,10 quid off the market :D


You bloody Chav, a sophisticated Gent would only be seen in Crocs (which can be had for £18 on Ebay ;) ) :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: 1125r tyre pressures
PostPosted: 18 Oct 2009 23:21 
Dirty John wrote:
Tyre pressures are as open to as much debate as the tyre choice themselves, we all ride differrently and what works for one will not work for all, much the same can be said about suspension settings - all you can do is experment to find out the optimum setting, being logical in your approach


Hi Pash.

After many Moons of setting up my bikes this is the approach I use if it is of any help.
First dont worry about the brand/type of tyre you have as it is irrelevant IMO.

Get yourself an air pump you can run off the bike and a digital pressure gauge. Always use the same gauge to test your tyres because others can vary wildly and as little as 2PSI will show up in the bikes handling. If access to the wheel valve is a prob get a right-angle fitting. About a fiver and a God send on a bike. If you must use a garage airline re-check the pressure with your own gauge. They can be miles out. Trust me on this it took me years to figure that one out :lol:.

Next set the front/rear preloads by the book and then adjust them for the all-up weight. The front and rear of the bike should go down about the same once you are sat on the bike. Then, for the moment, set the rest of the suspension by the book. Set the tyre pressures up for each day, one day could be hotter/colder than another, that you are setting up the bike. I would start with 36/38 and 34 front is to low. You are not going to have any problems as long as you do not go past the tyre makers max limits. Just take care while riding.

Next pick yourself a test route, long bends, roundabouts, etc, and stick to it while testing the bikes setup. Go for a run, say 5 miles, and then check the tyre pressures. I should have gone up, maybe 2PSI depending on the tyre, so 36/38 to say 38/40.

Make a note of what the bike was like cold and what it is like now the tyres are hot. With say 38/40 hot it should be ok but if the backend feels a little soft stick in 2PSI more and test again. Do not run the bike with more than 38 hot in the front. The aim is, via hot tyre pressures and therefore correct tyre profile, for the bike to roll in/out of bends, over white lines, holes, etc, and the tyres to still feel the same. You will not get this if the tyre is soft. The bike will run wide, track over white lines and in general feel like a piece of crap.

The idea of the pump is that you can add air as you like and do not need to look for a garage. It also pays for its self in the long run. Using your own gauge, even if it is wrong, allows you to stick to the same settings. Someone could say "I use 36PSI" but if your gauge is out by 5% thats near +/- 2PSI and that can be enough to make the bikes stearing feel odd. On my bike I can feel 2PSI easy. Also be aware that you can lose 1-2PSI just by taking off the airline.

Once you have, and this is a must, the pre-load and tyre pressures setup then comes the suspension setup for the riders given style but that is for another day.

I have been a bit windy with this Pash because, if you see fit, it could be used in the "How to" section. I could do a guide on suspension as well if it would be of help.


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