ah i see now....ok, surely if the Termignoni has a valve and it works as original, and the servo has not been damaged by your fat fingers or something out of the ordinary, like a stone jamming the valve , then a swap would be reasonable...but then that's what warranties are not good for...

out of interest what was the cost of the zorst

Yeah I've got the thing apart, however on mine it seems that the section on the outer gear that the black knurl locks in to is bent back so the thing just pings open.

What do you mean by a roll pin?

I got the exhaust from someone on here for £130 I think. An Irish guy? The exhuast is OK, but the mounting and so on is pretty flimsy. I'm got it when my standard one rusted and it was gonna be a 4 week wait for camcoating under warranty. Turend out to be about 3 months beofre the camcoaters got back and said orig was so fucked it couldn't be coated.... Now I'm just waiting on getting a new one under warranty that I'll prob get cam coated myself.

If I was to get another exhuast I wouldn't buy the Termi.

_________________
08 Specialized Langster

Why do you want to keep the AMC with the Termi

It has a valve on it, same as standard can

Is it on the bend of the pipe

Yup

See here: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/vY ... directlink

(I can't resize Picasa pics to fit the rules for this board)

Are you worried about the loudness of the Thermi

You can use Photoshop to resize pics.

No, I like the sound of the pipe.
I'm worried about it falling off.

Yeah, can use photoshop but that pic was already uploaded. I'll do some more of the inside of the motor in a sec.

*EDIT*

The two parts that are meant to mesh together. As you can see they are too far apart horizontally.



Pretty chewed up! The black chewed up piece can move down vertically to fit in the notch in the cream part. I can make them stick but they ping apart pretty easily.



Exhaust:



Any ideas for how to geth those two plastic parts to gel together?
These servo motors aren't cheap!

This is the insides of the OEM can.

The Buell OEM system, unlike the Powervalve on a Yam, just cuts noise at lower speed/revs. Its a sound emissions thing. I would wire it open and sort the fueling out. You are going to need to do this anyway. If I remember right you can get the Thermi without the valve.

I use my AMC as a paperweight. Its all it is good for IMO.

Really?

I thought it was to alter the back pressure to give better torque at the bottom and more power at the top end? That's what the manual says Or were they being a bit cunning?

Well I have not seen another aftermarket can that uses a valve. I guess there could be one.

Your AMC looks fooked and the arm is in the wrong position.

I think the real problem is the horizontal seperation between the black and cream sections. The cream part can wobble about a bit too.

Might get the craft knife out and try cleaning up the black bit.

You dont need it, Dud.

Your talking about savaging in an a can/header system. A design, negative pressure to pull exhaust gasses from the head, used to get the best for road use, while keeping the sound down because you still need a muffler for the road and/or some race tracks.

Prob not an exact way of putting it but close

Hmmm, I found this thread with a bunch fo American guys having the same issue:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/m ... 1249913983

After some knifing I can get mine like the bottom picture i.e. they bind together but the gear is heavily slanted.