I was out today trying to pinpoint my bikes odd, sometimes good and/or sometimes rough, engine running problem. It was still doing it and giving me the hump so much that the thought of outing the bike crossed my mind at one point . I had also noted that the bike had become harder to start over the past two days.

I get back, put it on the stand and feck the bike just cuts out. All I have is the High beam light (on the dash), the LCD display, the dials sweep on "ignition-on" and the rear light. Nothing else at all works. Then it comes back on, I try to start it and just get the clicking from the starter and it goes back to the same situation.

Anyway I trace it back to a massive "earth-resistance-fault" between the main/sub-frames and in the end to the battery negative strap and two-to-one loom earth that is fixed to the sub-frame. They are tight, clean and so did not think they would be a problem. I take it apart, it looks fine but there seems to be oil on the terminals but this is not from the bike and the bolt still has the locking paste on it from the factory. It has never been taken out.

I file back all the terminal surfaces as well as the face of the sub-frame mount as it had paint on it . I starts it and BLAM-O it fires up like its got a rocket up its arse. I have just started it up, from stone cold, and it fired up perfect with none of the slow turnover thing the bike has always had, even after I fitted a new battery, and it ticked over with almost no vibs. Even the rear indicators were stable. Most of the time they swing about like a dildo on speed.

But here is the best bit. Tonight, I hope it lasts, the bike run better than it ever has (two years). The thing scared me a bit, due to the outright power on tap, and how fast it comes in. Smooth in all gear/rev combinations. I even had 5th at 40mph .

So what can we draw from this. I would say this is a build flaw, on the Uly anyway, since it was like this from new. That can effect the starter, the ECM (electronics do not like this sort of thing) and maybe even the battery charge rate.

If you have problems it is a good start, only takes 15min to do and is freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

high resistance joins and earth faults , welcome to the hell of Electricians

glad you got it sorted

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Feros Ferio

Excellent news!!!
The best first line of attack always seems to be with the simple and cheap or free items. With a strong battery and solid earth connections, I'd bet a lot of rough running problems on Buells would be fixed.

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2006 XB12Ss..... 1998 S1W..... 1996 S2T
We do not need the help of our friends so much as confidence that they will help us when we need it. –Epicurus

Thanks, I am one.

Just been out for a 50 mile run and all is fine. Idle is as steady as a rock and the bike never missed a beat. I did not even bother to warm it up. Hardly need to slip the clutch either only a touch in first sometimes. I got it to pull from 30 in 5th, just to see if it would, and it did just about.

sparky too

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Feros Ferio

I had read about earthing problems before, while trying to sort out an old starting problem, and ended up with a new battery. The old one was u/s so needed it but the hard starting was still there.

I would say get out there and clean them and see if it helps any.

Hi FD
Few months back fitted new battery removed the rear s/frame rails cleaned up the mating surfaces bolted back and yer right my bikes run miles better since.

I might just extend the loom earths to the battery. Much less chance of any problems and I think it should have been done that way in the first place.

Yep still fires up "on the button" first time, every time and even a very cold morning does not faze it. Once the engine is hot it runs a smooth as a nut. Well not a "four" nut but very good given the vintage iron engine.

Good to hear you fixed it. It's one of the first things I always change on any old vehicle I have the big three 1 pos lead from battery to starter 2 cable from alternator to battery 3 engine or wiring earth. These are always the thinest from manufacturing cost but really up to daily use.

I don't think you should out the bike but let it decide it's own sexuality in it's own good time!

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aka DrBagiva, DrBusqvarna, Uncle Knobhead

Well its got BALLS now Dr B

Ah! - but not one accustomed to the quirks of older Guzzis. I have become quite an expert on earth faults since 1982.

You want to see how many amps a Guzzi starter needs!.

2002 Softails seem to be just as quirky. 1997 S3Ts (oddly?) not.

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Sept 2017. Email will find me.

In the past I did a lot of work on cars and bikes inc the electrics.

The only Guzzi I worked on was a favour for a mate in 1984. I do not recall what model it was but it looked like it came from the Stone Age. It was a total pile of crap so after the guy sorted out the mechanics, cost a fortune, I did a new re-wire inc a re-designed loom with a higher spec and no frame Earths. I had a few probs but nowt serious.

It was a sweet bike with lots of "old world" charm and I got to ride it every now and again. Not a speed or corner King but very nice to bimble about on a sunny day. He used to take it on Classic bike runs and even won a "best-in-class" prize one year. He then sold it, to pay off his Credit card, but went for a test on a sports bike, hit a lamp post, ended up in Hospital and had to pay off the owner. Ah, the old days wene we were young and stupid