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PostPosted: 07 Dec 2009 23:49 
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Current ride: S1W,S2T,1125CR
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The bikes come from the factory with a blank ECM. This is then flashed from Digital Technician during PDI which will download the latest reflash on the machine. If a dealer hasn't updated his Digitech in a while he will be loading an older reflash, I think that's the reason why some machines like Krafty's are running the "traditional" way.

We update our DT on a regular basis so will always load the latest reflash both at PDI and service. Buellie's bike was PDI'ed by us and is behaving exactly as it is intended to. As with all 2010 models I'm sure it is running really sweet.

Jon64 posted a far more technical explanation some pages ago but this is my understanding of it and, if it is good enough for the factory, it is good enough for me.

Steve

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PostPosted: 08 Dec 2009 08:44 
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Thanks, at last an explanation. I am not really fussed either way t.b.h, I will say my bike runs very smooth and the fuelling feels spot on. :D


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PostPosted: 08 Dec 2009 10:29 
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Location: England
ursus americanus wrote:
The bikes come from the factory with a blank ECM. This is then flashed from Digital Technician during PDI which will download the latest reflash on the machine. If a dealer hasn't updated his Digitech in a while he will be loading an older reflash, I think that's the reason why some machines like Krafty's are running the "traditional" way.

We update our DT on a regular basis so will always load the latest reflash both at PDI and service. Buellie's bike was PDI'ed by us and is behaving exactly as it is intended to. As with all 2010 models I'm sure it is running really sweet.

Jon64 posted a far more technical explanation some pages ago but this is my understanding of it and, if it is good enough for the factory, it is good enough for me.

Steve


Thanks for that Steve........yes the bike is really nice and smooth, but it seems strange that the fan is on when the temperature was around 6 degrees outside, and when you slow or stop in traffic it switches off.

My concern is that the fan will be running almost constantly when moving, and I would suspect that the wear and tear on the fan would be high.

BTW I am loving the bike, especially the way it handles the 'B roads'


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PostPosted: 13 Dec 2009 00:57 
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Joined: 06 May 2009 20:17
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Right ph4824,

I'm sure we have PM'd about this before?!
My experience:
New bike 0-500 miles, ran great.

500-3000 miles, after first service by Riders Bristol, the running went to shit. I reset TPS, and checked and reset the ignition timing which was slightly off. I still had problems. They had it back and changed the intake seals. Still had problems. I Checked EVERY electronic components specs and resistance values, and everything was perfect.
My fan was still coming on and had intermittent, low to mid rev issues.
I carried out the 'Breather Mod' but it made no difference, except it stopped pouring oil into the airbox.

3000-8000 miles, I carried out a HARD TPS RESET. (This is in the 'How To's' section). and it cured the problems instantly. If you want the full explanation why, pm me and I'll send you my phone no.

8000-10,000 miles, I've noticed the bike becoming more difficult to change up a gear at all revs. I adjusted the clutch cable to no avail. It also was not idling very well and adjustment of the idle screw made no difference. It was also 'Pinking' really bad this summer, Higher octane Petrol improved this, but it still 'pinked'. so I rechecked the timing. That was spot on, so I then tested the intake seals and found them leaking. I have just replaced them, and the bike is running perfectly, although it still seems to get quite hot in a mild ambient temp.

So, recapping!!!!!

1, Check / reset ignition timing, No cost.
2, Check and do a TPS HARD RESET. No cost.
3, Test the intake seals for leaks. No cost.
4, If still no success, test the specs of every electronic component.

My experience here, is NOT a faulty part, but that it's a part thats been fitted badly.

I hope this helps. L.E. ;)


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PostPosted: 13 Dec 2009 08:31 
Hi Lands End

Over Christmas I plan on doing the breather mod.

29/08/09 Riders did a TPS & ARV actuator valve resets

About a week ago I tightened up the front header pipe to engine. Wasn't lose but nuts wern't tight either. Also, I checked 2x earths under seat and although I couldn't get a tool to them, they were tight and it looked clean. Also unplugged and refitted all the electrical plugs under the seat. Since then I've had 1x cut out at tickover (yesterday) and a couple of lumpy tickovers here and there briefly but not had the poor running.

Yesterday I must have ridden for 130miles. Stopped of for chips, about 40 min later started her up, usual slightly higher tickover at first for a few seconds (like the auto choke is on) then when it settled down it started to go lumpy and cut out. Started her up and rode off no problems. During my ride yesterday I made a few brief stops and sometimes the fan did no come on, suggesting the bike wasn't running as hot, hence why I didn't have any issues maybe? I will be interested to see if the breather mod will make any difference to the tickover when hot after a stop?

I will be interested to do a hard reset if you are interested if things don't improve, probably after Christmas now.


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PostPosted: 13 Dec 2009 10:09 
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Hi Ph,
Quote: "I checked 2x earths under seat and although I couldn't get a tool to them, they were tight and it looked clean."

Speaking from experience being tight and looking clean means nothing!
The only way to be sure is to undo, clean and then re-assemble. The battery connection on my Raptor was clean and tight so I ruled it out.That was until I noticed how hot it was getting whilst I repeatedly tried to start the thing.

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PostPosted: 13 Dec 2009 11:45 
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:yt:
PH, please do the basics first if you're going to poke around with with your bike in the hope of chasing down some problem. It's very hard to give advice when you talk about doing stuff yourself and when problems arise saying it was down to some unnamed 3rd party whose identity you can't reveal :? . You then go on to lambaste someone as being sarcastic when that person could be your greatest ally in getting your bike running sweetly.
The above poster has offered you some sage common sense, connections that 'look' clean and tight can very often be misleading.

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PostPosted: 13 Dec 2009 18:38 
Adam wrote:
:yt:
PH, please do the basics first if you're going to poke around with with your bike in the hope of chasing down some problem. It's very hard to give advice when you talk about doing stuff yourself and when problems arise saying it was down to some unnamed 3rd party whose identity you can't reveal :? . You then go on to lambaste someone as being sarcastic when that person could be your greatest ally in getting your bike running sweetly.
The above poster has offered you some sage common sense, connections that 'look' clean and tight can very often be misleading.



Mmm not sure where you're coming from mate or whether you have misunderstood?

Doing the basics? Sure! There is a small list of things I intend doing (in the near future) as a result of advice given to me from this site.

Not sure I understand about the next point you raised. I've not done much work on the bike myself - tis true - but I def havn't blamed any 3rd party for work carried out on my bike. I take it you mean about the exhaust swap? I can't reveal this person cause this person asked me not to mention.

Not sure I've really lambasted anyone on this site. Infact when I was new here asking exhaust questions there were a few that gave me a hard time. Maybe I should have taken a step back and saw it for what it was - the new guy? But it felt quite personal at the time and no matter what input I had on this site I was the target for - well crap basically and Maz was one. I added to the Changing headers in the How To to give something back to this site, but even then I could do nothing right and was critised about that. :roll:

I don't have a problem with Maz personally, just don't appreciate ongoing unhelpful sarcastic comments. Far enough I think - who does?

Anyway, back to the topic in hand - I will check the earth points again. My only concern with removing the earth points and reconnecting is will it effect my alarm?

Thanks for your suggestions Adam.


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PostPosted: 13 Dec 2009 20:31 
greasemonkey wrote:
ph4824 wrote:
I could do nothing right and was critised about that. :roll:

,,just curious ph, do you get this sort of reaction often ?


No really, enough said on this matter. Lets move on I think, otherwise this forum will turn into an agony aunts website!


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PostPosted: 13 Dec 2009 21:07 
I think that there is something that needs to be said here.

In the past people talked to each other "face-to-face" and any problems could be seen as so before they become a problem. It is very easy, using this form of communication, to get the wrong end of the stick. In the past I have had a problem with PH but think that a lot of that has been down to this form of communication.


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PostPosted: 13 Dec 2009 21:16 
THE FLYING DUCHMAN wrote:
In the past I have had a problem with PH but think that a lot of that has been down to this form of communication.


At last! 1 down, :santa: to go along with 664 other members :twisted:

Joking aside, I'm not so bad honest! Like to be friends with all really Esp Maz :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: 13 Dec 2009 21:22 
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Current ride: X1 2001
Location: southampton
group hug :twisted: :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: 13 Dec 2009 21:24 
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Location: Oswestry
:yup:

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PostPosted: 13 Dec 2009 21:35 
Right back from Halfords and I have a nice matt black XB12 now and if :santa: asks, my name is not ph4824 it's now charley :lol:


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PostPosted: 13 Dec 2009 21:40 
Nutah wrote:
group hug :twisted: :lol: :lol:


Maybe not that far. But trust me on this there is "something in the wind" that comes this way and stuff like a wonky running bike is going to be the least of our problems. Might be nice to go for a pint though :rofl:


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