Hello

Here is how i installed a alloy swing from a X1 arm on my S1. I used the free S1 manual (in download section) and the recall/service bulletins.
I paid £150 for complete swing arm (delivered) including adjusters, rear engine mount, rear brake and axle.

The same alloy swing arm is used in alot of models. The main reason i swapped is the alloy one looks loads better and other people notice the difference in handling.

Parts you will need:

Alloy swing arm
Adjusters
Axle
New isolators
New seals
Longer rear brake pipe.

Other new parts i used

Swing arm bearings
Rearwheel bearings
rear brake pads
belt


First jack it up and off with the saddle


Off with plastics, petrol tank, oil tank and hugger


Off with exhaust


Rear wheel etc off and rear brake cable tied out of the way


Next i loosened the isolator bolt with allen key and used a ratch strap to lift the rear of the bike off the ground (close to where the oil tank top mounting bolts are and a beam in the roof sorry no pic). This let me disconnect the suspension and then use trolley jack to support the engine.

Once the engine is securly strapped to trolley jack i removed the engine supports. One on top of engine and one on to rear engine mount.


With isolator bolts out i separated the frame and engine (the front mount is still connected so be careful). Here is the swing arm off (just before i called it a day)


Now assemble your swing arm according to manual. I polished mine by hand not recommended for sanity or finger tips.

I had to grind a mounting off the rear peg supports shown in pic (think the mounting is for oil tank drain).

You can also see the new isolator trial fit.

I also had to shorten the pin close to the foot pegs that locates the isolators (service bulletin B-016B). Important bit now (follow the bulletin) installing the bearings, new seals, belt and isolators. I didnt have the rear isolator replacement tool so this is what i done (yes it is agricultural but it worked):

I removed the foot rest and put m8 stud bar in to spread the frame (notice the marks i will have to polish out).

I had to cut this belt guard down as the new isolator made the fit snug.


Now just refit the rest of the bike together (sounds that easy!) Here is mine with out the plastics which are getting sprayed.


This is a very rough guide and i hope someone with more knowlodge and experience than me will correct me and add to the guide .

Despite some Dealers using a tool to spread the frame, (I'd be surprised if they still do it though) it is unnecessary and should never be done.

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If your dreams don't scare you, they are not big enough.

So is this a first Showa recall unit, then, that was recalled for the second Showa type?

(look right past those scraped headers - they are due for the Warsaw treatment - you know, polish).
Long term there's an aftermarket shock in this bike's future, but the multiple recall thing has me scratching my head (no, it's not the lice).

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2006 XB12Ss..... 1998 S1W..... 1996 S2T
We do not need the help of our friends so much as confidence that they will help us when we need it. –Epicurus

Yes.

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Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

Ron/AST sound like the solution. I was just curious. I'm just tempted to ride the feck out of this bike as is while the riding is good, then bundle a bunch of stuff all together that would make sense to do in a pack: swing arm, shock, tyre change, general deeper sniffin' about. At the speed I do things, I'd have it all wrapped up and ready to go for November. Plus, just buying these bikes in the first place has taken out a chunk of change from the budget that wasn't really there in the first place, so if I can go easy on the mods for a bit, things will go better all 'round.

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2006 XB12Ss..... 1998 S1W..... 1996 S2T
We do not need the help of our friends so much as confidence that they will help us when we need it. –Epicurus

Just take care of the essentials that will save you grief in the future......I'd start with primary chain tensioner, if it aint been done already ?

_________________
Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

IIRC, when I did mine, I held the isolators in place and moved the swinging arm (with spacers held in place by the seals) into place, then put the Torx screws in to attach the swinger to the isolators.

My memory may be clouded, but I didn't spread the frame and it didn't feel like a big deal. I just followed the manual in the Download section of the site...

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08 Specialized Langster

You don't need to remove the oil tank either. Just the oil lines. And the carb. And the oil filter.
Hold the isolators in the frame with some tape and just lower the frame back on. No spreading required.

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I started out with nothing and still got most of it left.

Yep know about the recall shock but no kits left in UK according to provincewide HD.

Scraped headers now replaced with not so nice painted ones.

BBB if i remember correctly you are thinking of a swap.

This is my first bike and still learning (alot slowly ) hence why i wanted others to add to it and help others. But dont know how helpful this is:



But any who

What's the part number for the torx screws

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Farang Bah

2878Y

I prefer to use the old style cap head and I dont fit the washer either......reason = the torx head and washer cut into the rubber, the cap head gives better support over the rubber due to its length.

_________________
Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR