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PostPosted: 02 Apr 2010 22:01 
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Current ride: rusty 3-speed pedal
Location: Montauk
Took front wheel off (Nissin calipers should have a chunk taken out of them to slide off the rotor easier!); should I have the tyre shop guy check the bearings (8100 miles, but no doubt 1998 vintage)? Coming from xb world, so hoping tuber wheel bearings might be more sorted.
Will check head bearings; sorely tempted to do fork work, but also sorely tempted to put the bike back together and get it on the road finally.

Also, I can see why the OEM rotor wants an upgrade - but this OEM one has seriously loose connections to rotor holder. No wonder the PO said the front brake had a shimmy!!! :o

Any tips for a tuber newbie most welcome.

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PostPosted: 02 Apr 2010 22:17 
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Check you have a later primary chain tensioner. Make this a priority :D

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PostPosted: 02 Apr 2010 22:31 
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I don't and it is. Thanks. PN 39975-90A, n'est-ce pas?

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PostPosted: 02 Apr 2010 23:04 
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the wheel bearings on my '98 tuber were shot at 8000 miles ,change them anyway not as expensive as crashing ;) you know its worth it ,so was the front disc as you discribe.....not very durable these tubers ;)

whichway?

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PostPosted: 03 Apr 2010 00:49 
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Current ride: rusty 3-speed pedal
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Re the rotor situation - the OEM rotor is so loose, I wonder if it wouldn't be fecked from all the free play. Maybe not worth it to get the Buell wave washers and try to tighten it up - $225 for ECM rotor: this one?

Ka-ching. It begins. Was hoping to keep it together more or less as-is, and feel the changes done over time (easier on the wallet, as well).

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PostPosted: 03 Apr 2010 02:10 
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Motorrad wrote:
Re the rotor situation - the OEM rotor is so loose, I wonder if it wouldn't be fecked from all the free play. Maybe not worth it to get the Buell wave washers and try to tighten it up - $225 for EBC rotor: this one? Or theProlite one?

Ka-ching. It begins. Was hoping to keep it together more or less as-is, and feel the changes done over time (easier on the wallet, as well).


There - fixed it. Going to bed, aching all over. Head's not right. Flu was supposed to be over by now, right?

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PostPosted: 03 Apr 2010 02:42 
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has it got a pulse?
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Current ride: FUBAR...Enough said!
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If you can live with the rotor rattle, leave it til later, when you do replace it, don't bother with anything from Buell, get an EBC Prolite from American sportbike. My first rear wheel bearings were gone at 13000, don't think the front ever 'went' but have been replaced.
The Buell rear bearings are outright rude prices make sure you get them in SKS or something similar.

Personally, Id say forks can wait also-but I would check the level and adjust as necessary, it could always be something you do over winter.

Get it out and enjoy

FUBAR arrives on Tues :dance: :dance:

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PostPosted: 03 Apr 2010 13:41 
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Beef wrote:

FUBAR arrives on Tues :dance: :dance:

I'll bet you can't wait.

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PostPosted: 03 Apr 2010 14:38 
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has it got a pulse?
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Current ride: FUBAR...Enough said!
Location: Reading
I may be a little excited 8-)

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PostPosted: 03 Apr 2010 15:48 
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This rotor is really, really loose. I am going to try and tighten it, but there's a Buell front rotor kit for later, updated rotor (H0201.R 3655A) on ebay for $110; other than that, it's $250 for EBC prolite rotor and bolts...

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PostPosted: 03 Apr 2010 15:52 
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I dont know the tolerances, but they can move quite alot before it's deemed unsafe, Honestly though 'Rad, save yourself a load of hassle later on and get the Prolite-you'll find it stops alot better to ;)

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PostPosted: 03 Apr 2010 16:30 
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True, stopping is good, when you need to :D
Do you need to use the ridiculously-priced pan-head Buell bolts to mount the pro-lite rotor? They are $5 per bolt!

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PostPosted: 03 Apr 2010 17:15 
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No, buy some good quality grade12 (at least) cap heads and make sure that the threaded part of the bolt won't be in shear - so don't buy set screws. In theory, using bolts in an application like bolting discs onto a hub, isn't ideal in engineering terms.
I also have a personal prejudice against plated bolts in critical applications, I have no evidence for this but I suspect the plating process may lead to weakness. I may well be wrong and would be happy to be corrected by those who know differently :D

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PostPosted: 03 Apr 2010 17:35 
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Funnily enough the $5 screws (CA0001.Q) are set screws lOl

However, here's a tip........XB rear rotor screws (CA0005.9A7) are shouldered and come in packs of six for a grand total of $12.

They're the same thread/length (5/16 x 7/8) as the $5 screw, they're patchlocked as well but are actually better due to the shoulder ;)

Dont mess around with the poxy Buell 6 or 9 bobbin discs, go for the Prolite with 249HH pads.

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PostPosted: 03 Apr 2010 22:37 
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Adam wrote:
No, buy some good quality grade12 (at least) cap heads and make sure that the threaded part of the bolt won't be in shear - so don't buy set screws. In theory, using bolts in an application like bolting discs onto a hub, isn't ideal in engineering terms.
I also have a personal prejudice against plated bolts in critical applications, I have no evidence for this but I suspect the plating process may lead to weakness. I may well be wrong and would be happy to be corrected by those who know differently :D


Plated bolts need to be de-embrittled after plating. I had to replace 1200 off M6x25mm Cap screws in a machine once, as this had not been done. The heads sheared off a few, so we had to replace them all.

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