Just wondering if anyone has a handy tip for removing stubborn exhaust studs ?
The studs on the rear head of my bike are in fast. I've done the two nut thing, and I can feel if I go any further, they will shear. Or come out with the alluminium thread on the stud.
A bit of heat maybe ?
I don't realy want to leave them in. I want to fit new ones finger tight with some copperslip.
Whats the collective thoughts of UKBEG ?

Cheers,
Mick.

Heat it up. The exhaust studs have a larger minor diameter to make them an interference fit into the heads. Unless you are 10 men, you would probably struggle to get the studs in finger tight (unless the minor diameter of the internal thread is worn).

If it were mine, I would leave them be as drilling or spark eroding them out is a ball ache...

_________________
08 Specialized Langster

Heat and a sharp tap on the locked nuts Otherwise, leave them until next time you have the heads off, just in case they break and need sparking out.

_________________
If your dreams don't scare you, they are not big enough.

Aaaahhhh! But I know they're there, and I know it ain't right!
I just can't leave it be.

My training always taught me that studs go in finger tight.

There's no way I'm going to find someone who will do spark eroding on this rock in the Middle of the med.

I'll try some heat.

The pushrod tubes are scabbly, and looking at the manual, it looks like it's a head off job to get them out. Am I correct?

There's a HD dealer on the Island, will sporster tubes fit?

I can see I'll be adding more lightness.

Sorry Pash, no calander photo's this year!

Cheers,
Mick.

You aint even scratched the surface yet Mick.......pushrod tubes and exhaust studs

........and yes, tubes are the same as sporty's and no, heads dont have to come off.

_________________
Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

Thanks Maz. I'm a tart, so it's chrome pushrod tubes then.
Look nice against a black engine.

I know, I know, I bought a 12 year oild piece of ebay shit that's been ridden through the winter in U.K.

But I stand by my commitments, and I'll save another Buell from the breakers.

As I said to someone else, It's my downfall, I see things for what they can be, and not for what they are.
That's why I have a 43 year old sailboat that I've been restoring for 7 years!

TTFN,
M.

+44 161 343 3077 if you wanna chat......you have a world of work ahead if you're up to it

_________________
Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

Thank You !

It is my understanding that a correctly fitted stud is bottomed out and torqued into a thread,this causes the compressive and tensile forces in the threads to cancel each other out,in effect making the stud "part" of the item it is screwed into.

And Maz is spot on if it still does it's job leave it.

_________________
Nige...1125d 9.43@140mph

Well, we'll agree to disgree on that one then.

A stud should never be torqued into a bottomed out hole.
Finger tight with a bit of loctite if you're using a locknut. (Although I don't think loctight works at high temperatures)
But as Pash has pointed out, these particular studs seem to be an interference fit, probably for that reason. But I will only nip the new ones into the forward head with some tefgel.

If the ones I have on the rear head had been put in properly, I wouldn't be having trouble with them now.

The stud isn't supposed to be part of the piece it's screwed into. That's not the point of a fastener. It's there to be under tension, (residual stress) and clamp the components together.
Studs are used on high stress components like rod ends, bearing caps, heads etc, becuase when the nut is tightened onto the stud, less force is needed to overcome the friction of the threads, hence more accurate residual stress to hold the pieces together, and a more accuracey when torqueing.
Although for rod ends (on a car) we use a stretch gauge.

Appologies if you alredy know some of that.

All in my opinion of course.

But I did also do a course on torque, in a previous life, when I worked QC and dimensional inspection. Now I'm just a humble mariner...

But we can agree on one thing... after giving it some thought, I'll just use new nuts with some copaslip.

Cheers,
Mick.

You can buy flanged copper (or silver ) plated UNF nuts on Ebay. They don't go all scabby like other plated nuts do.

_________________
If your dreams don't scare you, they are not big enough.

Get some K-Nuts on...

_________________
08 Specialized Langster

I've got some chrome ones And some better flanges, new circlip retaining thingies, gaskets (The old ones get jammed in there don't they!) and a full Albert system in the pipeline
Nice carbon tank trims turned up today, and a forcewinder is coming too.

Jeez, you're wasting/spending dosh in all the wrong places aren't you ........whilst the headers are off, take a look at valve stems, I'd bet they're covered in oil because the stem seals are toast.
Did you fit a decent oil pump drive gear yet ?........have you checked out the oil lines where they run between the back of the box and the swingarm carrier ?
Which MY X1 did you end up with ?........even 2001's need stuff doing

_________________
Mithered ta death.
92 MB
96 S2T
98 S1W
00 M2
01 X1
03 P3
10 CR

Maz, I have a LH oil pump drive gear to put on, (Thank You Pashly) so I will have the rocker box's off at the same time, I have all the new gaskets and seals ready to go.

I already looked at the stems, and they are dry. But I may pop the tops off and do them anyway, as I want to make sure the bolts are O.K.

I'm planning at cutting the gear case down and re-running the oil lines at the same time.
I'm also looking into getting an alloy oil tank made up with the feed and return lines in a better location, to make the oil line installation a bit neater.

I may also fit some XB rocker box's if Santa is kind

Oh, and I have new front and rear isolation mounts to fit.

All fluids will be changed, and a new drive belt & billet front mount is on the wish list.

Wheel, swing arm and headstock bearings to check, as well as checking the rear calliper which seems quite ineffective. (Maybe just crap pads)

It's a 2001. around 12,000 on the clock. Anything else I need to waste my dosh on?

Cheers,
Mick.