My Uly has just come up to 10k, so I thought I would treat it to a proper service.
I made a list of additional stuff, over and above the manual, to run past Maz.
1. Replace headraces
2. Replace wheel bearings
3. Replace swinging arm bearings
4. Replace tensioner bearings
5. Lubricate cables (I know it says this already but run oil down them)
6. Change brake fluids
7. Clean IAT sensor
8. Check ignition lead for chaffing
9. Check harness for chaffing
10. Clean wiring loom and connectors
11. Apply silicon grease to 77 connector
12. Clean throttle tube
13. Clean and lubricate brake and clutch pivots
14. Clean and lubricate gear lever and rear brake pivots
15. Clean throttle plate
16. Clean and lubricate tickover screw
17. Clean brake pistons (and sliders)
He gave me a bit of direction, but to be fair, a lot of what he would do is down to experience, knowing how to spot harness chaffing for example...
I started yesterday...
First of all to clean the bike. It does get cleaned, maybe not after every ride, and it gets coated in ACF50 or FS365 when I am feeling lazy, the former being the better. So, after a trip to see Maz on Saturday, and getting caught in the rain a few times as I crossed the Peak District, it was looking a little dirty...
As it cleaned up, the extent of all weather 10,000 miles of corrosion was evident:
A bit sad, but hey, time to treat it like a princess...
So, rear wheel came off and tensioner came off. Bearings in the tensioner were replaced (see How To), a pair of 6203s. Were they worn? Yeah, there was play in them, and as a Free Spirits tensioner is fitted, there is not a lot of margin for wear before the wheel starts to rub against the fork. There was a little bit of evidence that this had happened, but the anodising was pretty much in tact. You could feel movement in the wheel, as a result of play in the bearings, though.
I also changed the wheel bearings, hence the input into the wheel bearing thread yeaterday. They were about 5000 miles old and were quite lumpy.
That was enough for yesterday, it is amazing how long these jobs take.
So, this morning, up at Dawn's crack, quick coffee at the local caf, then to work... Firstly, screw some door handles to the joists, start the oil draining into my big HD drain pan then hoist the bike up with tie-downs and off with the swinging arm...
Bearings pulled and then replaced (6204s for all you
s)...
Did the bearings need replacing at 10k? Well, I am glad I did replace them. There was more wear on the LH side than the RH, however it was noteicable on both sides. Of course, I didn't really have a problem with handling caused by these bearings being worn, but I guess it is one of those things that happens gradually and you don't notice it, just like headraces, which when changed make quite a difference to the ride.
Before fitting the bearings, I had to clean up on the non-drive side as there was some crap and corrosion near the bottom of the bore, I did this with my Dremel and brass Action Man chimney brush
A quick look at the drain plugs (primary and engine - both a bit blurred) suggested all was in order:
Then, next job was the 77 connector:
Which didn't actually look too bad, however I filled it with Silicon grease to protect from corrosion. I had done this already once before...
Next job was the oil pressure switch, embarrasingly I have not had a functioning oil light for about 2000 miles
I assumed it was the switch, and I kinda hoped it would start working the more I used the bike
, however that was not the case.
On an XB it is a PITA to get to, you need to move an oil pipe to get access:
...but when I got access, I pulled the connector and tried to earth it and make the light come on, it wouldn't. I checked continuity to earth on the switch and it was earthed, so that pointed to a bulb failure or harness fault, however looking carefully at the connector, it looked like the harness had been pulling at it and had broken all the strands of wire...
I cut it back, and soldered on a longer bit of with with a bullet connector, used some heatshrink and some normal harness tubing to make the singe wire a bit more robust before connecting it back and clipping with cable ties away from the exhaust.
The primary drive was filled up with
Fuchs V Twin 80/90, interestingly this comes in a 1L bottle, wherease the primary needs 1 quart, about 5% less, so I'll need to check the level...
Not filled the swinger oil tank up yet as I was wondering whether to use the
Putoline Formula V Twin 20/50 I got free with my last set of Maxxis tyres... A quick read of the spec sheet says I will...
Still lots to do, maybe do a bit more tonight, but deffo will be onto it tomorrow night focussing on the front end...
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whats worn ( and how much ) to give you that " a 'metallic' effect..."