Now I found the spade connection below the starter solenoid, the old war horse cranks O.K. especially with her brand new battery

But she won´t run!

Crank for about 10 seconds, then she coughs, and runs for around 3 seconds at about 11-1200rpm and stops.
She doesn´t respond to throttle, and the plugs are wet. There´s a strong smell of fuel.

I scribed the position of the stator plate before removal, when I did the oil pump drive gear. It´s got to be an ignition problem with all that fuel in the pots.

This is the first time I´ve ever pulled something apart, and it hasn´t run after I put it back together. I must be getting

Have I got the cam timing wrong?

Any ideas?

Fully charge the battery and try fresh plugs, how much have you had in bits? does it need a TPS reset?

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2001 X1 2009 1125CR 2006 Uly X3 2010 Uly a fully Maz'd S1 and a 1991 RS1200 Westwind.

Battery is brand new, and fully charged.
The plugs have done about 30km. I cleaned them, and blew them dry with an airline.

I have done the oil pump drive gear, and lots of other stuff. But the other stuff shouldn´t be an issue.
I did fit some new plug leads though.. I wonder if they´re duff...

Why would it need a TPS reset if it was running O.K. before I stripped it down?

That was partly the reason I asked what other work you'd done Mick ....... if it is the same ECU and the throttle idle screw or TPS hasn't been touched then in theory it shouldn't need doing, if you have a cable and ecmspy it is very easy to check though.
Make sure that the CPS sensor connectors are fully home if you have had it unplugged because it is not uncommon for the pins to push out of the connectors instead of engaging correctly when you push the connectors together.
Did any cams drop out of mesh when you removed the cam cover? If so is it possible you got them slightly wrong?
Saying that you say it runs for about 3 seconds. Does the fuel pump sound OK?

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2001 X1 2009 1125CR 2006 Uly X3 2010 Uly a fully Maz'd S1 and a 1991 RS1200 Westwind.

No I haven´t touched the TPS, but I did tweak the idle screw tonight thinking if I upped the tick over speed it may start and settle (The long rubber tube thingy).

Same ECU.

I don´t have ecmspy at the moment, although I did buy the bits and a Palm, but haven´t got around to making it all up.

I did unplug the CPS and pull the plug apart to remove the cam cover, so I´ll check that out tomorrow evening.

I had the cams out, but I was very careful to line everything up. Hope I don´t have to pull it all down again!

The fuel pump primes as normal, check engine light comes on for a few seconds then goes out after pump has primed.

Thanks for the replies.

Had a quick tinker last night on the way home from work.

The CPS plug appears to be good.

I did the manual fault check by shorting the two wires on the data plug, and it gives me 5 codes...

13. O2 sensor (which is new and worked before I meddled)

16. battery voltage. (battery is brand new with 12.6v)

33. Fuel pump. (which I can hear prime and stop at pressure when I switch on ignition, plus the plugs are wet)

44. Bank angle sensor.

So, the chances of all those things failing at once, I would say are 1,000,000 to 1.

My line of thought is that the ECU isn´t getting information from these and shutting the old girl down after about three seconds.

Could it be a multi plug not making a good connection somewhere?
This would make sense to me, as I had all under the tank unplugged when I lifted the frame to change the isolators, and to get stuff out of the way when I did the rocker boxes.

Trouble is, I can´t clearly make out the wiring diagram on my computer, and if I try and print it, it´s still unreadable.
But from what I can just make out, it seems most of these things go to the multi plug on the ECU. The only ones I haven´t touched.

Am I on the right track here?...

Maybe a simple suggestion but if you disconnect the battery cables for a couple minutes or so and afther connecting them back on ,try to start and see what it does.

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The sound of a V-twin engine braking is music to my ears!!

Hello BiB,

thanks for the suggestion, but I´ve had the battery on and off a dozen times.
To put in on the maintenance charger, to keep it topped up between tries, and also to check the connectors under the battery tray.

Next step I think, is to remove the tank again, and go through the connection blocks with some CRC contact cleaner.

Cheers,
Mick

If I were you, I would get your ECMSpy running and clear the fault codes. You don't know whether these are historic from when you cranked with a flat battery.

Then, I would think what I did between it starting and not starting. For instance, did you disconnect the injectors and then reconnect them back to front?

As for your cam timing, did you line the arrows up? I don't think there is much forgiveness if you get it wrong. Willy said he found someone's gears one tooth out once and it still ran. I reckon if you were a tooth out you would probably have bent a valve, which suggests you could do a compression test.

But in the meantime, do another crank. Do those fault codes come back? They could suggest a dodgy earth somewhere. A dodgy ignition switch maybe. You could use your multimeter to look at the voltage inputs to the sensors that are failing, if they stall are.

You could also look at all the sensor readings using ECMSpy live data. That will tell you if the ECM is being given the wrong signals.

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08 Specialized Langster

Hi Pash,

No I 'didn't touch the injectors.

Good point about the fault codes possibly being old ones from a flat battery.

I don´t think I got the cam timing out, I´m very careful with stuff like that, and I did take my time to make sure it was correct. But when something like this happens, it does put doubts in your mind.
If I have, I´ll sell my tools and toys, and go into a corner to curl up and die in shame!

I´m sure it will be something simple, a stupid mistake or oversight.
Thinking I should have bought something older with carbs, points, and a condenser! I hate all this ECU stuff, electronic this and that!

You'll never get into Spanish politics thinking like that!

What you need is a 2-stroke diesel with a drip feed.

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Sept 2017. Email will find me.

I´ve found myself looking at GT750 kettles recently. Fancy one with expansion chambers
I ruled out the KH750 triple (widow maker) Have you seen the prices they are commanding?!

Anyway, I´m dreaming. I need to get this thing running.

I´m not low enough to get into Spanish theft, sorry, I meant politics.

I tried lying down - but was still not low enough.

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Sept 2017. Email will find me.

If the plugs are wet, then I would check the engine temperature sensor first. Injector's pulsewidth will be surprisingly large at low temperatures and safely drown any engine.

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"It is often said that before you die your life passes before your eyes. It is in fact true. It's called living."
Terry Pratchett

I can crawl under a snake´s belly wearing a top hat, and I´m still not low enough.